SAN1P122WO

DESCRIPTION

“Process for manufacturing a textile item provided with a double welt by means of a circular weft knitting machine”

Field of the invention

The present invention has as its object a process for manufacturing a textile item by means of a circular weft knitting machine. The present invention has furthermore as its object a textile item obtained by means of this process.

In particular, the present invention is related to a textile process that provides for manufacturing, with a seamless and weft knitting machine, a textile item ending with a double welt closed on itself using the needles of the machine and consisting of an inner layer and an outer layer which show, with worn textile item, always the wrong side of the knitted structure produced.

Background of the invention

It is known the use of circular knitting machines for knitwear for the producing of textile items of various type, destined to the manufacturing of garments and textile products of all types. Such textile items may constitute garments and products that are substantially already completed once manufactured by the knitting machine or they may undergo subsequent operations and workings, such as cutting, stitching, applying additional portions, wrapping, etc..

Circular knitting machines for knitwear for the manufacturing of textile items comprise at least a needle-bearing organ (needle-bearing cylinder and/or plate), on which one or more series of needles is/are arranged along a circular path (circular needle beds), and devices designed to control the movement of the needles for the formation of the fabric. Knockover sinkers are arranged in radial seats obtained in an annular body (sinkers crown) arranged around the needle-holder cylinder, and said sinkers cooperate with the needles to form the knitted fabric.

In the manufacturing of textile items on circular knitting machines for knitwear, it is also known to use various processing techniques that allow to manufacture different types of knitted fabric. For example, the processing may provide for manufacturing knitted fabric portions manufactured according to the following technical ways: unloaded needle (plain knitted loop), non-operating needle (bridle), withdrawn needle (tuck stitch).

Seamless circular knitting machines for knitwear are shown, for example, in WO2011042299 and WO2012117352 documents on behalf of the same Applicant.

The seamless circular knitting machines produce a tubular-shaped knitted fabric which normally has inside it the side that is designed to constitute the inside of the fabric itself, whereas it has outside the side designed to constitute the outside of the fabric. Therefore the tubular portion has inside it the "wrong side” of the knitted structure, whereas outside thereof it has the "right side” of the knitted structure. Furthermore, the seamless circular knitting machines are characterized by the fact that it is possible to manufacture special knitted structures such as the "floated”, which allows to define determined areas of the fabric where, for example, a dark thread stands out from a light thread. This allows to obtain effects such as well-defined writing or designs on the outside of the fabric.

Another knitted structure obtainable in a seamless fabric is the terrycloth knitted fabric, that is visible, typically, on the wrong side of the knitted structure.

Seamless machines of known type are also capable of manufacturing, at one end of the tubular portion and of the textile item, a "double welt” which substantially consists of two layers of fabric facing each other, one on the outside of the tubular and the other on the inside. In order to make the double welt, the machine first produces the inner layer, which is then folded, precisely, on the outside of the tubular (as if it were a welt, thus creating the outer layer) and then "closed” with its end at the beginning of the inner layer. Substantially, the two layers thus facing each other create a closed pocket where the fabric is double and constitutes a welt, precisely "double”. In the traditional double welt, the closing of the inner layer on the outer layer takes place by using particular components called hooks contained in an additional needle bed with respect to the needle cylinder: these hooks operate in support of the needle bed, and allow the thread to be picked up and realize the closing of the double welt whereas the needles manufacture the knitted fabric that constitutes the two layers of the double welt. Eventually, the hooks can manufacture the closing of the traditional double edge using an additional thread.

In any case, the traditional double welt is easily recognizable due to the fact that the hooks create, in order to close the double welt and create the "pocket”, a special "chain” at the beginning of the inner layer: this chain constitutes a joining row that connects the initial end of the fabric of the inner layer (folded inside the tubular portion) with the end part of the outer layer (produced as second), closing the pocket of fabric that takes on a circumferential shape all around the tubular portion of the knitted fabric.

An example of a chain of knitted fabric manufactured to close a traditional double welt can be seen in figures 2A and 2B of the present patent application, which show the inside of the tubular portion: it can be appreciated that such a chain is composed of a series of "small caps" of knitted fabric, i.e. a series of small triangles of knitted fabric which connect the initial row of the inner layer with the final row of the outer layer. The chain manufactured with the hooks is clearly visible on the wrong side of the knitted structure of the tubular portion and constitutes a sort of "seam” to close the traditional double welt.

Generally, the construction of a traditional double welt allows that part of the knitted fabric produced as the outer fabric of the tubular portion also ends up on the inside of the tubular portion: this knitted fabric is the one that constitutes the inner layer of the double welt, which is the part of the double welt that is folded inside and then closed to form the annular pocket together with the outer layer. Therefore, at the entire traditional double welt there is the presence of outer knitted fabric (i.e. of the right side of the knitted structure). It is to be noted that, always in figures 2A and 2B, the knitted fabric of light color corresponds to the right side of the knitted structure, whereas the knitted fabric of dark color corresponds to the wrong side: it is evident that, by observing the inside of the tubular portion, the inner layer of the traditional double welt (closed with the chain made with the hooks) appears of light color, whereas the remaining of the inner fabric of the tubular portion is of dark color. As a matter of fact, the inner layer is actually outer knitted fabric folded inside, and therefore it appears of light color being the right side of the knitted structure.

If one tried to "open” the pocket of the traditional double welt, i.e. to remove the chain, the inside of the pocket would be all of dark color, since it consists only of the wrong side of the knitted fabric, i.e. from the inside of the tubular portion; indeed, at this point the inner layer, of the double welt, by opening itself would return to the outside of the tubular portion and the double welt would no longer be present.

Summary

In the field of manufacturing textile items by means of seamless circular knitting machines for knitwear, the Applicant has encountered the presence of some limitations and drawbacks.

First, the Applicant noted that processes of known type allow limited combinations in the obtainable knitted structures, and therefore do not always allow to manufacture textile items that have the necessary desired technical and/or aesthetic features.

For example, the drawings, the motifs and the knitted structures definable by means of the known processes are limited, and the aesthetic effect achievable on the textile item may not be satisfactory.

In particular, please note the following. As shown above, the traditional double welt is "closed” on the inner side of the tubular portion (i.e. on the wrong side of the knitted fabric) by means of the chain manufactured with the hooks. This typically does not constitute an issue in case wherein the textile item/garment manufactured with the tubular portion - provided with the traditional double welt - is designed to be or used to be worn in a standard mode, i.e. by showing the outside of the tubular portion (the right side of the knitted fabric). As a matter of fact in this case it is visible only the outer layer of the double welt, whereas the inner layer is on the wrong side and therefore non-visible. Also the chain is, then, non-visible, as it lies too inside the tubular portion and therefore the garment.

It is clear that by wearing an item (or generally by "using” a textile item) may not be acceptable to show, and therefore make visible, the inside of the tubular portion: in this case as a matter of fact it would make itself visible the inner layer of the traditional double welt and also the union chain constituted by the series of caps: this would appear as a defect in the knitted fabric, or as a producing or packaging error of the garment. Therefore in the known solutions, traditionally, the inside of the tubular portion, i.e. the wrong side of the knitted fabric, is not shown, as this would make visible an unaesthetic part constituted by the closing chain of the traditional double welt. The known solutions have then limitations in terms of possibility /freedom of design and manufacturing of textile items.

In addition, the Applicant has also noted that the textile items obtained with known processes may show a quality - under the aesthetic and/or technical profile - not always responding to the needs of the market.

Furthermore, the Applicant has observed that the processes of known type do not provide for the necessary versatility in terms of combinations of knitted structures obtainable on a single textile item.

In this situation, an object at the basis of the present invention, in its various aspects and/or embodiments, is to propose a process for producing a textile item with a seamless circular knitting machine, and a textile item obtained by means of this process, which are able to solve the above indicated issues and overcome the limitations of the known technique.

In particular it is an object of the present invention to propose a process for manufacturing a textile item with specific structural features able to confer determined technical properties to the item itself.

Another object of the present invention is to propose a process that allows to manufacture a textile item with specific esthetical features and/or of comfort and wearability.

Another object of the present invention is to propose a process that allows to manufacture a textile item characterized by a stable structure and not subject to defects or imperfections.

It is furthermore object of the present invention to propose a process that allows to manufacture textile items in an economically competitive way.

Another object of the present invention is to propose a process able to provide the necessary versatility in terms of combinations of knitted structures obtainable and showable on a single textile item.

Another object of the present invention is to propose a process that allows to produce drawings and patterns, also complex and detailed, on a single textile item.

Another object of the present invention is to propose a process that allows to obtain specific esthetical effects visible on a single textile item.

It is also object of the present invention to propose a textile item manufactured on a seamless circular knitting machine wherein areas with different properties (both technical and esthetical) are all of them present and arranged where they are needed.

Another object of the present invention is to create alternative solutions, with respect to the known technique, in the manufacturing of knitted textile items, and/or to open new design fields.

These objects, and any others, that will better result during the following description, are substantially reached by a process for manufacturing a textile item, and by a related textile item manufactured on a seamless circular knitting machine, according to one or more of the attached claims, as well as according to the following aspects and/or embodiments, variously combined, possibly including the aforesaid claims.

In a first aspect, the invention refers to a process for manufacturing a textile item by means of a circular knitting machine. Preferably the process operates with a circular weft knitting machine.

Preferably the process operates with a seamless circular knitting machine.

In an aspect the process comprises the step of arranging a circular knitting machine comprising at least a feed or fall and a needle-bearing organ supporting a plurality of needles, defining a circular needle bed, which can be operated to pick up the threads dispensed by said at least one feed and to form weft knitted fabric; said needle-bearing organ being rotatable relative to said feed and said feed being arranged in proximity to said needle-bearing organ.

In an aspect the process comprises the step of programming said knitting machine so as to define a textile item to be manufactured.

In an aspect the process comprises the step of producing weft knitted fabric with said circular knitting machine for manufacturing said textile item, according with said step of programming.

In an aspect, in said step of programming, the textile item consists of a plurality of knitted fabric successive rows.

In an aspect, in said step of programming, the textile item has a tubular or cylindrical shape, around a central axis, and extends longitudinally in a continuous manner between an initial end, where begins the knitting, and a final end.

In an aspect, in said step of programming, the textile item has a right side corresponding to the outside of the knitted structure as it is produced by the knitting machine.

In an aspect, in said step of programming, the textile item has a wrong side corresponding to the inside of the knitted structure as it is produced by the knitting machine.

In an aspect said step of producing weft knitted fabric comprises a step of producing a double welt defining said initial end, wherein said double welt is a "booton-type double welt”, also referred to for the sake of simplicity as "booton welt”.

In an aspect the booton welt comprises an outer layer of fabric developing from the first row of the textile item and positioned outside of the tubular portion.

In an aspect the booton welt comprises an inner layer of fabric produced as a continuation of the outer layer and turned inside the textile item so as to be positioned inside the tubular portion and facing the inner side of the outer layer.

In an aspect the booton welt is closed, at the end of the production of the inner layer, by means of knitted stitches made with a set of needles of said plurality of needles only, these knitted stitches joining the end (ending) of the inner layer with the outer layer (in particular with the beginning of the outer layer) so that the booton welt is shaped as a closed pocket, of annular shape around the central axis, formed by the overlapping of the outer layer on the inner layer. In an aspect said step of producing weft knitted fabric comprises, preferably at the end of the producing of the booton welt, a step of producing a body of the textile item for a given number of successive rows as far as said final end.

In an aspect the step of producing a body of the textile item substantially takes place in a continuous manner after the step of producing the booton welt. In an aspect said body of the textile item develops in a continuous manner with respect to the end of the booton welt.

In an aspect the booton welt is a closed flap, which allows the wrong side of the knitted structure, which is inside the tubular, to appear also outside of the tubular.

In an aspect the booton welt constitutes a double welt (in English "double welt”) consisting of two layers of fabric (in English "double layer”): each of the two layers of the booton welt (inner layer and outer layer) represents a so-called "layer”, i.e. a layer of fabric.

In an aspect the booton welt, having a shape of closed pocket consisting of said inner and outer layers, represents a tube-shaped welt i.e. a fabric channel with a circumferential development all around the perimeter of the initial end of the knitted tubular portion (of cylindrical shape) produced by the knitting machine.

In an aspect the booton welt is produced so as to be astride said initial end of the tubular portion, and is present both on the inside of the textile item, with the inner layer, and on the outside of the textile item, with the outer layer.

In an aspect the outer layer of the booton welt is on the right side of the textile item since it is turned outside with respect to the inner layer.

In an aspect the whole booton welt has always visible the wrong side of the knitted structure, since the inner layer is produced after the outer layer and is turned inside, whereas inside said closed pocket - obtained by reversing the inner layer over the outer layer and by closing the booton welt - is enclosed only the right side of the knitted structure belonging to the booton welt. Therefore in the booton welt the wrong side of the knitted structure, i.e. the inside of the tubular portion, is also on the outside of the tubular portion itself.

The booton welt produced with the needles is a knitted structure that has on the right side (outside of the tubular portion) and on the wrong side (inside of the tubular portion) always the wrong side of the knitted structure produced. In the booton welt the right side of the knitted structure is closed inside said pocket.

In an aspect the booton welt is such since it is produced by closing the knitted fabric produced on itself, i.e. starting with the inner layer and subsequently reversing the outer layer on the inner layer, so that the whole booton welt shows the wrong side of the knitted structure.

In an aspect the process provides for defining the textile item in accordance with one of the two following purposes:

- the textile item is configured for being used or worn in standard or non-turned mode, i.e. with the wrong side inside the textile item and the right side outside the textile item; in this case the wrong side of the knitted structure is visible, outside the textile item, on said outer layer of the booton welt only; - the textile item is configured for being used or worn in inside-out mode, i.e. with the right side inside the textile item and the wrong side outside the textile item; in this case the wrong side of the knitted structure is visible, outside the textile item, both on the whole body of the textile item and on said inner layer of the booton welt.

In an aspect the textile item is designed to be used in standard mode, with the right side outside and the wrong side inside, in this case outside showing:

- the outer side of the body of the textile item, which shows the right side of the knitted structure;

- the outer layer of the booton welt, which shows the wrong side of the knitted structure, or the textile item is designed to be used in inside-out configuration, with the wrong side outside and the right side inside, in this case the outside showing:

- the inner side of the body of the textile item, which shows the wrong side of the knitted structure;

- the inner layer of the booton welt, which shows the wrong side of the knitted structure.

In an aspect the inner layer of the booton welt is on the wrong side of the tubular portion of knitted fabric.

In an aspect the outer layer of the booton welt is on the right side of the tubular portion of knitted fabric.

In an aspect both the layers which constitute the booton welt always show the wrong side of the knitted structure. In an aspect the inner layer and the outer layer of the booton welt constitute two faces of the booton welt, wherein:

- the inner face is closed on the outer face so as to create a closed pocket which shows the outside of the two faces only, i.e. the wrong side of the knitted structure;

- the inside of the two faces, i.e. the right side of the knitted structure, is closed inside the pocket.

In an aspect the step of producing weft knitted fabric with said circular knitting machine comprises a step of producing at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric.

In an aspect said portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is always produced so as to be visible on the wrong side of the knitted structure, i.e. on the inner side of the tubular portion as it is produced by the knitting machine.

In an aspect said at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is located in said booton welt.

In an aspect said at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is located (on the wrong side) on said inner layer and/or on said outer layer of the booton welt.

In an aspect said at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is located in the body of the textile item.

In an aspect the step of producing weft knitted fabric with said circular knitting machine comprises a step of producing at least one first portion of terrycloth knitted fabric in the booton welt and at least one second portion of terrycloth knitted fabric in the body of the textile item.

In an aspect the step of producing weft knitted fabric with said circular knitting machine comprises a step of producing a plurality of portions of terrycloth knitted fabric both in the booton welt and in the body of the textile item.

In an aspect the closing of the booton welt provides for the following steps: - at the beginning of the formation of the booton welt, i.e. at the beginning of the production of the inner layer, inactivating (i.e. not selecting) a set of needles of said plurality of needles, for instance 1 out of 2 needles or 1 out of 3 needles, not taking part then in the production of knitted fabric of the outer layer and of the inner layer;

- switching to a non-operating configuration the needles of said set of inactivated needles, so as to retain knitted stitches;

- producing knitted fabric of the booton welt with the remaining needles of said plurality of needles (which have not been inactivated so as to close the booton welt), and in particular:

- producing the outer layer for a given number of rows;

- then producing the inner layer for a (respective) given number of rows;

- at the end of the inner layer, switching back to operation the needles of said set of needles which have been previously inactivated, thus releasing the knitted stitches previously retained and creating a closing row which joins the beginning of the outer layer at the end of the inner layer, thus generating the aforesaid closed pocket and therefore the booton welt.

In an aspect the closing row, which determines the closing of the booton welt, realizes at the same time a plain and uniform knitted fabric in the transition between the booton welt and the body of the textile item, both on the wrong side and on the right side of the knitted structure. The closing row is therefore a row joining the outer layer and the inner layer of the booton welt.

In an aspect, in the closing row all the needles of said set of needles which have been previously inactivated are put back in the process.

In an aspect the inner layer and the outer layer have a same number of rows which determines the height of the booton welt, i.e. the size of the booton welt along a direction concordant to the central axis of the tubular portion which realizes the textile item.

In an aspect the closed pocket of the booton welt is manufactured by matching the outer layer with the inner layer, showing always the wrong side of the knitted structure, and closing the end of the outer layer on the inner layer.

In an aspect the step of producing the booton welt is realized before the production of the body of the textile item so that the booton welt results in a continuous manner with the body of the textile item (and vice versa).

In an aspect the booton welt, which realizes said initial end of the tubular portion of knitted fabric, is the base of the textile item.

In an aspect the circular knitting machine comprises a plurality of knockover sinkers, if required also special sinkers, operatively associated to said plurality of needles.

In an aspect, in said step of arranging a circular knitting machine, the circular knitting machine is structured so as to enable a needle-needle selection, i.e. it is structured so as to individually select any desired needle at will and thus activate the respective sinker, so as to allow the execution of special stitches, in particular terrycloth knitted stitches, in certain desired positions only. In an aspect, in the context of said needle-needle selection performed by the knitting machine, the execution of special stitches - in particular terrycloth knitted stitches - in certain desired positions only, takes place in particular thanks to the needle-sinker interaction, i.e. thanks to the interaction between each needle, which can be individually selected at will, and the respective sinker. In this case each sinker can be individually activated by a direct or indirect action of the respective needle when the latter is selected.

In an aspect, in said step of programming is set at least a designed motif, defined on at least two successive stitch rows, i.e. following one another, in which:

- in at least one of the two successive rows a portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is present;

- in at least one of the two successive rows a portion of floated knitted fabric is present.

In an aspect, said portion of floated knitted fabric is strictly manufactured on a first row of said two successive rows and said portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is strictly manufactured on a second row of said two successive rows, or vice versa.

In an aspect, said portion of floated knitted fabric is combined, on at least a same row of said two successive rows, to said portion of terrycloth knitted fabric.

In an aspect, are defined:

- one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric and one portion of floated knitted fabric combined on the first row of said two successive rows;

- one respective portion of terrycloth knitted fabric and one respective portion of floated knitted fabric combined on the second row of said two successive rows.

In an aspect, the first and the second row of the two successive rows are homogeneous with each other and have the same combinations of structures of knitted fabric, i.e. they have the same structures of knitted fabric in positions suitable for obtaining the pattern/drawing which is to be realized.

In an aspect, the programming of the knitting machine provides for a continuous succession of the same row, where each row exhibits the same typologies of knitted fabric in corresponding positions.

In an aspect, on the row - of said two successive rows - wherein it is present said portion of floated knitted fabric it is not present said portion of floated knitted fabric, and vice versa on the row, of said two successive rows, wherein it is present said portion of floated knitted fabric it is not present said portion of floated knitted fabric.

In an aspect at least one of said two successive rows has, at the same time inside thereto, the portion of terrycloth knitted fabric and at least one portion of knitted fabric manufactured according to one or more of the following techniques:

- unloaded needle (plain knitted loop);

- non-operating needle (float);

- withdrawn needle (tuck stitch). In an aspect at least one of said two successive rows has, at the same time inside thereto, the portion of floated knitted fabric and at least one portion of knitted fabric manufactured according to one or more of the following techniques:

- unloaded needle;

- non-operating needle;

- withdrawn needle.

In an aspect at least one of said two successive rows has, at the same time inside thereto, the portion of terrycloth knitted fabric, the portion of floated knitted fabric and at least one portion of knitted fabric manufactured according to one or more of the following techniques:

- unloaded needle;

- non-operating needle;

- withdrawn needle.

In an aspect at least one of said two successive rows has, at the same time inside thereto, the portion of terrycloth knitted fabric, the portion of floated knitted fabric and at least one portion of knitted fabric produced with a portion of thread with a different color or with a portion of thread differing from the threads used in the basic knitted structure.

In an aspect said step of programming provides for defining, in said two successive stitch rows:

- one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric and one portion of plain knitted fabric, combined on the first row of said two successive rows;

- one portion of plain knitted fabric and one portion of floated knitted fabric, combined on the second row of said two successive rows.

In an aspect at least an of said two successive rows has one portion of floated knitted fabric comprised between two portions of terrycloth knitted fabric placed on the sides (i.e. before and after) of said portion of floated knitted fabric along the development of the row.

In an aspect, along the development (i.e. along the diameter of the tubular portion) of at least one of said two successive rows, or in both rows, is repeated several times:

- an alternating sequence of one portion of floated knitted fabric and one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric; and/or

- an alternating sequence of one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric and one portion of plain knitted fabric; and/or

- an alternating sequence of one portion of floated knitted fabric and one portion of plain knitted fabric.

In an aspect said designed motif, set in said programming step, is defined on a plurality of consecutive rows and consists of a serial repetition - for a certain number of times (preferably more than 1 ) - of said two successive stitch rows, so as to obtain a structure with alternating rows, consisting of an alternating sequence of first rows and second rows of said two successive rows.

In an aspect said structure with alternating rows consists of an alternating sequence of: - first rows comprising at least one portion of floated knitted fabric and at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric;

- second rows comprising at least one portion of floated knitted fabric and a portion of knitted fabric obtained with unloaded or non-operating needles.

In an aspect, in said structure with alternating rows the two successive rows are different rows, i.e. they have differentiated knitted structures in adjacent/analogous positions.

In an aspect, said structure with alternating rows provides that the two successive rows, different from one another as far as knitted type is concerned, are repeated during the production of knitted fabric.

In an aspect said designed motif, set in said programming step, is defined so as to have different knitted structures, among which one or more portions of:

- floated knitted fabric,

- knitted fabric produced with unloaded, non-operating and/or withdrawn needles,

- knitted fabric produced with a thread with a different color, comprised inside an area of at least two consecutive rows of which at least one has an area of terrycloth knitted fabric.

In an aspect said designed motif, set in said programming step, has one portion of floated knitted fabric between portions of terrycloth knitted fabric and is defined on a succession of first and second alternating rows, where:

- on the first row it is present floated knitted fabric combined with knitted fabric obtained with unloaded, nonoperating and/or withdrawn needles;

- on the second row it is present terrycloth knitted fabric combined with knitted fabric obtained with unloaded, non-operating and/or withdrawn needles.

In an aspect, in case wherein a same row has one portion of floated knitted fabric combined with one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric, between these two portions it is present one portion of plain knitted fabric (or other nonfloated knitted fabric), placed between, and separating, the floated knitted fabric and the terrycloth knitted fabric. In an aspect, the step of programming provides for a direct transition from one portion of floated knitted fabric to one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric only in case the floated knitted fabric and the terrycloth knitted fabric are defined in corresponding portions but on alternative rows.

In an independent aspect thereof, the present invention refers to a textile item manufactured by means of a seamless circular weft knitting machine.

In an aspect the textile item:

- is consisting of a plurality of successive stitch rows;

- has a tubular or cylindrical shape, around a central axis, and extends longitudinally in a continuous manner between an initial end, where knitting begins, and a final end;

- has a right side corresponding to the outside of the knitted structure as produced by the knitting machine;

- has a wrong side corresponding to the inside of the knitted structure as produced by the knitting machine. In an aspect the textile item comprises:

- a double welt defining said initial end, wherein said double welt is a "booton-type double welt”, also referred to for the sake of simplicity as "booton welt”.

In an aspect the booton welt has the following technical features:

- it comprises an outer layer of fabric developing from the first row of the textile item and positioned outside the tubular portion;

- it comprises an inner layer of fabric produced as a continuation of the outer layer and turned inside the textile item so as to be positioned inside the tubular portion and facing the inner side of the outer layer;

- it is closed, at the end of the production of the inner layer, by means of knitted stitches made with a set of needles of said plurality of needles only, these knitted stitches joining the end of the outer layer with the inner layer so that the booton welt is shaped as a closed pocket, of annular shape around the central axis, formed by the overlapping of the outer layer on the inner layer.

In an aspect the textile item comprises:

- a body of the textile item developing for a given number of successive rows as far as said final end.

In an aspect the textile item is configured for being used or worn in standard or non-turned mode, i.e. with the wrong side inside of the textile item and the right side outside of the textile item; in this case the wrong side of the knitted structure is visible, outside of the textile item, on said outer layer of the booton welt. In alternative, the textile item is configured for being used or worn in inside-out mode, i.e. with the right side inside of the textile item and the wrong side outside of the textile item; in this case the wrong side of the knitted structure is visible, outside of the textile item, both on the whole body of the textile item and on said inner layer of the booton welt. In an aspect the textile item comprises at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric.

In an aspect said portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is always manufactured on the wrong side of the knitted structure, i.e. on the inner side of the tubular portion. In an aspect said at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is located in said booton welt. In an aspect said at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is located (on the wrong side) on said inner layer and/or in said outer layer of the booton welt. In an aspect said at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric is located in the body of the textile item.

In an aspect the textile item comprises at least one first portion of terrycloth knitted fabric in the booton welt and at least one second portion of terrycloth knitted fabric in the body of the textile item.

In an aspect the textile item comprises a plurality of portions of terrycloth knitted fabric both in the booton welt and in the body of the textile item.

In an aspect, in the textile item:

- if the portion of terrycloth is located in the booton welt, and in particular both in the inner layer which in the outer layer of the booton welt, it is possible to have it stand out, i.e. make it visible, both on the right side (the outside of the tubular portion) and on the wrong side (the inside of the tubular portion), therefore whether the textile item is used (in particular worn) in standard mode and the textile item is used in inside-out mode; - if the portion of terrycloth is located in the body of the textile item, the latter is in particular designed to be used in inside-out mode, for making the portion of terrycloth visible and enhancing it.

In the preceding aspects as well as in the detailed description that follows and in the attached claims, each of the technical features introduced with reference to the process for manufacturing a textile item, and in particular each of the features related to the knitted structures, is applicable analogously also to the textile item considered on its own, i.e. as a product manufactured by means of a process carried out by a circular knitting machine for knitwear.

Other features and advantages will result clearer by the detailed description of a preferred, but not exclusive embodiment of a process for manufacturing a textile item and of a textile item manufactured on a seamless circular knitting machine, in accordance with the present invention.

This description will be provided below with reference to the attached figures, which are provided for illustrative and, then, non-limiting purposes only, wherein: figure 1 shows schematically a tubular textile item produced by means of a seamless circular weft knitting machine; the process and the textile item according to the present invention follow the structural scheme exemplarily shown in figure 1 ; figure 1A shows a part of the tubular textile item of figure 1 : in particular, figure 1A shows one portion "sectioned” of the lower end of the tubular textile item, which allows to schematically appreciate the conformation of the booton welt 7 in accordance with the present invention (and in particular the inner and outer layers 8 and 9 and the pocket 10); figure 2 shows an example of tubular textile item manufactured with a process of known type; in particular, this textile item has a "traditional-type double welt”, i.e. produced with the hooks; in figure 2 it is shown the "wrong side” of the textile item, i.e. the inner side of the tubular fabric as it is produced by the circular knitting machine, with portions of floated knitted fabric (which realize the exemplary writing “SANTONI”); figure 2A shows a first enlargement of the textile item of figure 2, in particular of the lower end of the tubular portion where it is present the "traditional-type double welt”; figure 2B shows another enlargement of the textile item of figure 2 and 2A: in particular it is observable the closing of the "traditional-type double welt” constituted by the "chain” of knitted fabric produced with the hooks; figure 3 shows a first embodiment, of exemplary type, of a textile item manufactured by means of the process according to the present invention; in particular, it is shown the "wrong side” of the textile item, i.e. the inner side of the tubular fabric as it is produced by the circular knitting machine; furthermore, this embodiment comprises the terrycloth knitted fabric in the body of the textile item and a "bootontype double welt”, as defined in the present invention, and constituted by plain knitted fabric; figure 3A shows an enlargement of the textile item of figure 3, in particular of the lower end of the tubular portion where it is present the "booton welt”; it can be observed the transition from the body of the textile item and the inner layer of the booton welt; figure 4 shows a second embodiment, of exemplary type, of a textile item manufactured by means of the process according to the present invention; in particular, it is shown the "wrong side” of the textile item, i.e. the inner side of the tubular fabric as it is produced by the circular knitting machine; furthermore, this embodiment comprises the terrycloth in the body of the textile item and a "bootontype double welt”, as defined in the present invention, also comprising portions of terrycloth knitted fabric (which realize an exemplary writing "SANTONI”); figure 4A shows an enlargement of the textile item of figure 4, in particular of the lower end of the tubular portion where it is present the "booton welt”; it can be observed the transition between the inner layer of the booton welt and the body of the textile item and the presence of some portions of terrycloth knitted fabric (which form letters); figure 5 shows a third embodiment, of exemplary type, of a textile item manufactured by means of the process according to the present invention; in particular, it is shown the "right side” of the textile item, i.e. the outer side of the tubular fabric as it is produced by the circular knitting machine; furthermore, this embodiment comprises some structures of knitted fabric in the body of the textile item and a "booton-type double welt” comprising portions of terrycloth knitted fabric (which realize a writing "SANTONI”); figure 5A shows an enlargement of the textile item of figure 5, in particular of the lower end of the tubular portion where it is present the "booton welt”; it can be observed the transition between the outer layer of the booton welt and the body of the textile item, and the presence of some portions of terrycloth knitted fabric (which form letters); figure 6 shows one portion of a "booton-type double welt” as defined in the present invention: in particular, in this image the pocket of the booton welt, as per figure 5A, has been deliberately opened (loosening the knitted stitches manufactured with the needles for closing the booton welt) so as to show the inner layer, the outer layer and the inside of the pocket.

It should be noted that the attached figures are constituted, with the exception of figure 1 and 1 A, by real images which depict real examples of textile items (in accordance with various and different exemplary embodiments) realized by the Applicant by means of the process according to the present invention. Detailed description

With reference to the mentioned figures, with number 1 has been overall indicated a textile item produced with a process in accordance with the present invention.

For the carrying out of the process according to the present invention, it can be used (preferably but not exclusively) a weft knitting machine with at least one feed or fall and with a needle-bearing organ which supports a plurality of needles - defining a needle bed - which can be operated, in a known way of its own, to pick up the threads dispensed by this feed and to form knitted fabric. The needle-bearing organ is rotatable relative to the feed, and the feed is arranged in proximity of the needle-bearing organ.

The circular knitting machine for the carrying out of the process according to the present invention is a seamless circular weft knitting machine.

From a point of view of the textile technology, the structure of the entire knitting machine and the operation of the needle-bearing organ (for example the cooperation between needles and threads, etc.) are not described in detail, being them known in the technical field of the present invention.

Generally, it is noted - as above shown - that the seamless circular knitting machines produce a knitted fabric of tubular shape which normally has inside it the side that is designed to constitute the inside of the fabric itself, whereas it has outside the side designed to constitute the outside of the fabric. Therefore the tubular has inside it the "wrong side” of the knitted structure, whereas on the outside it has the "right side” of the knitted structure. According to a first embodiment thereof, the process in accordance with the present invention provides for first of all arranging a seamless circular weft knitting machine, comprising:

- at least one feed or fall;

- a needle-bearing organ supporting a plurality of needles, defining a circular needle bed, which can be operated to pick up the threads dispensed by said at least one feed and to form weft knitted fabric; the needle-bearing organ being rotatable relative to the feed, and the feed is arranged in proximity of the needle-bearing organ;

- a plurality of knockover sinkers, if required also special sinkers, operatively associated to the plurality of needles.

The process provides therefore for programming the knitting machine so as to define the textile item 1 to be manufactured, which:

- is consisting of a plurality of successive stitch rows R;

- has a tubular or cylindrical shape, around d a central axis X, and extends longitudinally in a continuous manner between an initial end 2, where the knitting begins, and a final end 3;

- has a right side 4 corresponding to the outside of the knitted structure as it is produced by the knitting machine;

- has a wrong side 5 corresponding to the inside of the knitted structure as it is produced by the knitting machine.

Therefore the equivalence applies:

- right side = outside of the tubular portion (reference number 4);

- wrong side = inside of the tubular portion (reference number 5). Once the textile item 1 has been defined, the process passes to the step of production of the weft knitted fabric by means of the circular knitting machine, for manufacturing therefore the textile item in accordance with the step of programming.

The step of manufacturing the weft knitted fabric comprises the step of producing a double welt 7 defining said initial end 2, wherein said double welt is a "booton-type double welt” 7, also referred to for the sake of simplicity as "booton welt” 7.

This booton welt 7 has the following technical features:

- it comprises an outer layer 9 of fabric which develops from the first row of the textile item and is positioned outside the tubular portion (i.e. on the right side 4);

- it comprises an inner layer 8 of fabric produced as a continuation of the outer layer 9 and turned inside the textile item (i.e. on the wrong side 5);

- the outer layer 9 is positioned outside of the tubular portion and faces externally the inner layer 8;

- it is closed, at the end of the production of the inner layer 8, by means of knitted stitches made with a set of needles of said plurality of needles only: these knitted stitches join the end of the outer layer 9 with the inner layer 8 so that the booton welt 7 is shaped as a closed pocket 10, of annular shape around the central axis X, formed by the overlapping of the outer layer 9 on the inner layer 8.

The step of producing weft knitted fabric comprises furthermore (preferably at the end of the booton welt 7 and in a continuous manner therewith) the step of producing a body 6 of the textile item 1 for a given number of successive rows R as far as said final end 3.

The step of producing the body 6 of the textile item 1 takes place substantially in a continuous manner after the step of producing the booton welt 7. Substantially, the body 6 of the textile item 1 develops in a continuous manner starting from the end of the booton welt 7.

The structure of the textile item according to the present invention is schematically shown in figures 1 and 1 A: it can be noted the axis X of the tubular portion of knitted fabric, the body 6 and the booton welt 7, which is consisting of two inner 8 and outer 9 layers.

In figure 1 and 1 A it can be noted that the booton welt 7 is constructed by first manufacturing the outer layer 9 and then by inserting (inside-out) the inner layer 8, which derives from the right side 4 and ends on the wrong side 5. Therefore both the inner layer 8 and the outer layer 9 make visible the wrong side 5 of the knitted fabric produced in the tubular portion, whereas the right side of the knitted fabric of both the layers remains closed inside the pocket 10.

It should be noted also that the initial end 2 and the final end 3 of the tubular portion have a closed ring conformation (i.e. if the tubular portion of knitted fabric is considered as a hollow cylinder, the ends are substantially the cylinder base circumferences). The booton welt 7 constitutes a double welt (in English "double welt”) consisting of two layers of fabric (in English "double layer”): each of the two layers of booton welt (inner layer 8 and outer layer 9) represents a so-called "layer”, i.e. a layer of fabric.

The booton welt 7 has a conformation of closed pocket 10 consisting of the inner 8 and outer 9 layers, and (as observable in figures) represents a tube-shaped welt i.e. a fabric channel with a circumferential development all around the perimeter of the initial end 2 of the tubular portion of knitted fabric produced by the knitting machine.

The booton welt 7 is produced so as to be astride said initial end 2 of the tubular portion, and is therefore present both on the inside 5 of the textile item, with the inner layer 8, and on the outside 4 of the textile item, with the outer layer 9.

Substantially the outer layer 9 of the booton welt 7 is on the right side 4 of the textile item 1 since it is turned outside with respect to the inner layer 8.

The whole booton welt 7 has always visible the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure, since the inner layer 8 is produced after the outer layer 9 and is turned inside, whereas inside the closed pocket 10 - obtained by reversing the inner layer 8 over the outer layer 9 and by closing the booton welt - is enclosed only the right side 4 of the knitted structure belonging to the booton welt 7.

Therefore in the booton welt 7 the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure, i.e. the inside of the tubular portion of knitted fabric, is also outside of the tubular portion itself.

The booton welt 7 manufactured with the needles is a knitted structure which has on the right side 4 (outside of the tubular portion) and on the wrong side 5 (inside of the tubular portion) always the wrong side of the produced knitted structure.

Substantially the booton welt 7 is a closed flap, which allows the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure, which is inside the tubular portion, to appear also outside the tubular portion.

On the contrary, in the booton welt the right side 4 of the knitted structure is closed inside the pocket 10.

It is to be noted that the booton welt 7 is such since it is manufactured by closing the knitted fabric produced on itself, i.e. starting with the outer layer 9 and subsequently reversing the inner layer 8 on the inside of the tubular portion, so that the whole booton welt 7 shows the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure.

According to the present invention, the closing of the booton welt 7 provides for the following steps:

- at the beginning of the formation of the booton welt 7, i.e. at the beginning of the production of the outer layer 9, inactivating (not selecting) a set of needles of said plurality of needles, for instance 1 out of 2 needles or 1 out of 3 needles, not taking part in the production of knitted fabric of the outer layer 9 and of the inner layer 8;

- switching to a non-operating configuration the needles of said set of inactivated needles, so as to retain knitted stitches;

- producing knitted fabric of the booton welt 7 with the remaining needles of said plurality of needles (which have not been inactivated so as to close the booton welt), and in particular: - producing the outer layer 9 for a given number of rows;

- then producing the inner layer 8 for a given number of rows;

- at the end of the inner layer 8, switching back to operation the needles of said set of needles which have been previously inactivated, thus releasing the previously retained knitted stitches and creating a closing row 30 which joins the beginning of the outer layer 9 at the end of the inner layer 8, thus generating the aforesaid closed pocket 10 and therefore the booton welt 7.

It is to be noted that the step of "inactivating (not selecting) a set of needles of said plurality of needles”, and therefore switching them to a non-operating configuration, substantially constitutes a selection of a given set of needles of the needle-bearing organ: such "not selected” needles, i.e. not used for producing the knitted fabric of the outer layer 9 and of the inner layer 8, serve to realize the closing of the booton welt. This closing takes place precisely by initially switching the needles of said set of non-selected needles to a non-operating configuration, to retain knitted stitches, and - once the knitted fabric of the outer layer 9 and of the inner layer 8 is produced - switching back to operation the knitted stitches previously retained and thus creating the closing row 30.

Preferably the closing row 30, which determines the closing of the booton welt 7, realizes at the same time a plain and uniform knitted fabric in the transition between the booton welt 7 and the body 6 of the textile item, both on the wrong side 5 and on the right side 4 of the knitted structure.

Preferably in the closing row 30 all the needles of said set of needles previously not selected are switched back to operation.

The closing row 30 is therefore a row joining the outer layer 9 and inner layer 8 of the booton welt 7.

It is to be noted that the closing of the booton welt 7 (i.e. the joining point of the two layers) is always on the outside of the knitted structure, i.e. on the right side 4 of the tubular portion as it is produced by the knitting machine.

Preferably the inner layer 8 and the outer layer 9 have a same number of rows which determines the height of the booton welt 7, i.e. the size of the booton welt 7 along a direction concordant to the central axis X of the tubular portion which realizes the textile item 1.

Preferably the closed pocket 10 of the booton welt is produced by matching the outer layer 9 with the inner layer 8, by always showing the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure, and by closing the end of the outer layer 9 on the inner layer 8.

The process of the present invention provides to define the textile item 1 in accordance with one of the two following purposes:

- the textile item 1 is configured for being used or worn in standard or non-turned mode, i.e. with the wrong side 5 inside of the textile item and the right side 4 outside of the textile item; in this case the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure is visible, outside the textile item 1 , on the outer layer 9 of the booton welt only; or - the textile item 1 is configured for being used or worn in inside-out mode, i.e. with the right side 4 inside the textile item 1 and the wrong side 5 outside the textile item; in this case the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure is visible, outside the textile item 1 , both on the whole body 6 of the textile item and on the inner layer 8 of the booton welt 7.

As "turned inside-out” is intended that the tubular portion of the textile item is on the wrong side (in English "inside-out”), so that the inside is outside and vice versa. Substantially, "turned inside-out” means that the tubular fabric is overturned or reversed with the inside which results outside and, of consequence, the outside which results inside.

Two examples of embodiments of textile items in inside-out mode are shown in figures 3-3A and 4-4A.

An example of embodiment of textile item in standard or non-turned mode is instead shown in figures 5-5A. These figures will be explained in more detail below.

When the textile item 1 is designed to be used in standard mode, with the right side 4 outside and the wrong side 5 inside, are visible outside:

- the outer side of the body 6 of the textile item, which shows the right side 4 of the knitted structure;

- the outer layer 9 of the booton welt 7, which shows the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure.

On the contrary, when the textile item is designed to be used in inside-out configuration, with the wrong side outside and the right side inside, there are visible outside:

- the inner side of the body 6 of the textile item, which shows the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure;

- the inner layer 8 of the booton welt 7, which shows the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure.

In the context of the present description and of the claims, with the terms reversible, turned inside-out, tippable, tiltable, reversible, it is understood that the textile item is designed to be used, for example worn, with the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure outside (i.e. visible) and the right side 4 of the knitted structure inside, i.e. on the contrary of how normally the tubular fabric is manufactured by the knitting machine.

The above-mentioned terms indicate then that the textile item is "outerwear”, i.e. is designed to be used enhancing the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure, which is as a matter of fact made visible on the outside of the worn textile item.

Generally, as show above, the inner layer 8 of the booton welt 7 is - after the production by the knitting machine

- on the wrong side 5 of the tubular portion of knitted fabric.

On the contrary, the outer layer 9 of the booton welt 7 is - after the production by the knitting machine - on the right side 4 of the tubular portion of knitted fabric.

According to the present invention, both the layers 8 and 9 which constitute the booton welt 7 make always visible the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure.

Preferably the process of the present invention provides that the step of manufacturing weft knitted fabric with the circular knitting machine comprises a step of producing at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S. This portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S is always produced so as to be visible on the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure, i.e. on the inner side of the tubular portion as it is produced by the knitting machine.

Preferably said at least one portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S is located in the booton welt 7.

The portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S can be located (on the wrong side) on the inner layer 8 and/or on the outer layer 9 of the booton welt 7.

The portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S can also be located in the body 6 of the textile item (obviously always on the wrong side 5 of the knitted fabric).

The step of producing weft knitted fabric can comprise a step of producing at least a first portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S in the booton welt 7 and at least a second portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S in the body 6 of the textile item.

The step of producing weft knitted fabric can comprise a step of producing a plurality of portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S both in the booton welt 7 and in the body 6 of the textile item 1 .

In order to better understand the integration and the enhancement of the terrycloth knitted fabric in the various embodiments of the present invention please note figures 3-3A, 4-4A and 5-5A.

The embodiment exemplarily shown in figures 3 and 3A has the following features:

- the textile item 1 is designed to be used in inside-out mode, i.e. by showing the inside of the tubular portion and therefore the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure;

- it is visible the wrong side 5 of the body 6 of the textile item;

- the body 6 has, on the wrong side, variously shaped portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S (these are the knitted stitches of dark color present in the flower shown as example and for highlighting the potentialities of the process of the present invention); in portions S of terrycloth knitted fabric please note the typical "curls" of the terrycloth knitted fabric processing;

- it is visible the inner layer 8 of the booton welt 7 (since the item is used in inside-out mode);

- the inner layer 8 in this case has plain knitted fabric and is free from portions of terrycloth knitted fabric.

The embodiment exemplarily shown in figures 4 and 4A has the following features:

- the textile item 1 is designed to be used in inside-out mode, i.e. by showing the inside of the tubular portion and therefore the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure;

- it is visible the wrong side 5 of the body 6 of the textile item;

- the body 6 has, on the wrong side, variously shaped portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S (these are the knitted stitches of dark color present in the flower shown as example and for highlighting the potentialities of the process of the present invention); in portions S of terrycloth knitted fabric please note the typical "curls" of the terrycloth knitted fabric processing;

- it is visible the inner layer 8 of the booton welt 7 (since the item is used in inside-out mode); - the inner layer 8 in this case has both plain knitted fabric and some portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S (in this case portions shaped so as to produce the writing “S A N T 0 N I”); in the portions S of terrycloth knitted fabric please note the typical "curls" of the terrycloth knitted fabric processing.

The embodiment exemplarily shown in figures 5 and 5A has the following features:

- the textile item 1 is designed to be used in standard (non-turned) mode, i.e. showing the outside of the tubular portion and therefore the right side 4 of the knitted structure;

- it is visible the right side 4 (of light color) of the body 6 of the textile item;

- the body 6 has, visible on the right side, the "backward” of some portions of terrycloth knitted fabric realized on the wrong side of the knitted fabric, i.e. on the inner side: for this reason the "curls” of terrycloth knitted fabric are not visible in this case (the backward of the terrycloth knitted fabric corresponds to the parts of intermediate grey color in the flower shown as an example);

- it is visible the outer layer 9 of the booton welt 7 (since the item is used in non-turned standard mode);

- the outer layer 9 in this case has both plain knitted fabric and some portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S (in this case portions shaped so as to produce the writing “S A N T 0 N I”); in the portions S of terrycloth knitted fabric please note the typical "curls" of the terrycloth knitted fabric processing;

- even if the item of figure 5 is not turned, it is anyhow possible to make the wrong side 5 of the knitted fabric visible at least in the booton welt, and in particular in the outer layer 9.

It is to be noted that:

- if the portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S is located in the booton welt 7, and in particular both in the inner layer 8 and in the outer layer 9 of the booton welt, it is possible to make it stand out, i.e. make it visible, both on the right side 4 (the outside of the tubular portion) and on the wrong side 5 (the inside of the tubular portion), therefore if the textile item 1 is used (in particular worn) in standard mode and if the textile item 1 is used in inside-out mode;

- if the portion of terrycloth knitted fabric S is located in the body 6 of the textile item, the latter to make visible and enhance this portion of terrycloth knitted fabric must be used in inside-out mode.

As above shown, the inner layer 8 and the outer layer 9 of the booton welt 7 substantially constitute two "faces” of the booton welt 7, wherein:

- the outer face is closed on the inner face so as to create the closed pocket 10 which shows only the outside of the two faces, i.e. the wrong side 5 of the knitted structure;

- the inside of the two faces, i.e. the right side 4 of the knitted structure, is closed inside the pocket.

In order to better understand this structuring of the booton welt please note figure 6.

This figure shows one portion of the booton welt 7 wherein the pocket 10 has been deliberately opened, undoing the knitted stitches manufactured with the needles for closing the booton welt, so as to show the inner layer 8, the outer layer 9 and the inside of the pocket 10. The image is taken from the outside of the tubular portion (it can be noted the right side 4 of the knitted fabric of the body 6 of the textile item): it can be noted that the outer layer 9 which derives from the wrong side of the knitted fabric (as a matter of fact it comprises portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S) "unsewn'' from the inner layer and slightly lowered to show the inside of the pocket 10.

The inside of the pocket is consisting entirely of the right side of the knitted fabric which composes the two layers, as a matter of fact does not comprise portions of terrycloth knitted fabric or of other structures of knitted fabric belonging to the wrong side.

In the light of the above, it is clear that portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S realized in the booton welt 7 (which we have seen being manufactured and "closed” exclusively using needles) are always visible on the whole pocket of the booton welt, therefore both on the outer side (right side) and on the inner side (wrong side) of the tubular portion produced.

On the contrary, portions of terrycloth knitted fabric realized in a traditional-type double welt (which we have seen being "closed” by using hooks) will necessarily end up being inside the pocket: as a matter of fact the traditional double welt shows always the right side of the knitted structure and encloses in the pocket the wrong side of the knitted fabric and, since the terrycloth knitted fabric is precisely on the wrong side of the knitted fabric, this terrycloth knitted fabric will not be visible and will be closed as a "sandwich” inside the pocket. In the traditional double welt, therefore, the terrycloth knitted fabric can at most have the only function of additional thickness (or "spacer”, or "cushion”), whereas in the booton welt, according to the present invention, the terrycloth knitted fabric can be shown outside the pocket and therefore made always visible in the manufactured textile item.

As for the portions of terrycloth knitted fabric realized in the body 6 of the textile item, it can be noted the following. In the light of what has been described, it is clear that the process of the present invention allows to realize "outerwear” items, i.e. destined to be worn on the wrong side, and this with the purpose of enhancing and making the portions of knitted fabric in terrycloth knitted fabric visible, which we know to be realized on the wrong side of the knitted structure (i.e. on the inner side of the tubular portion). So, to be able to do this correctly it is necessary that such items are realized with a booton-type welt, and this for the following reasons:

- to avoid that the "caps” of the chain are visible, i.e. that the joining row generated by the hooks, during the closing of the pocket, in the traditional type double welts, since this chain is unaesthetic;

- to allow to manufacture portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S in selection also in the double welt, and in particular in the inner layer 8 of the booton welt 7 (despite producing the knitted fabric with a quantity of needles reduced with respect to the remaining part of the item since some are used for the closing of the booton welt itself).

Preferably the step of producing the booton welt 7 is realized before the production of the body 6 of the textile item 1. In this way the booton welt 7 is in a continuous manner with the body 6 of the textile item 1 , and vice versa. Generally, at structural level, in the textile item there is continuity between the inner layer 8 of the booton welt 7 and the body 6. Substantially, the knitted fabric of the textile item passes in a continuous manner from the booton welt 7 (in particular from the inner layer 8) to the body 6.

Preferably the booton welt 7, which realizes the initial end 2 of the tubular portion of knitted fabric, is the basis of the textile item 1 ; however, alternatively, the booton welt 7 can be manufactured also as final end 3.

Preferably, the circular knitting machine used to actuate the process is designed to allow a needle-needle selection, i.e. it is designed to individually select any needle at will and consequently activate the respective knockover sinker, to allow to knit special knitted stitches (in particular terrycloth knitted stitches) only in certain desired positions.

Preferably, within the framework of the aforementioned needle-needle type selection carried out by the knitting machine, the carrying out of special knitted stitches - in particular terrycloth knitted stitches - only in certain desired positions, takes place in particular thanks to needle-sinker interaction, i.e. through the interaction between each individually selectable needle and the respective sinker. In this case, each sinker is individually activated through a direct or indirect action of the respective needle when it is selected. It is therefore a needleneedle type selection (for each needle individually) which realizes a sinker-sinker selection.

An example of embodiment of "needle-needle type selection” in a circular knitting machine is described in the Italian patent application n. 102021000018047, on behalf of the same Applicant, which is incorporated herein by reference.

The technical solution described in the application n. 102021000018047, which allows the needle-needle selection, i.e. the individual selection of any needle at will and the activation of the respective sinker, by means of the needle-sinker interaction, is usable for implementing the process according to the present invention, in its possible embodiments.

Please note again the attached figures 3, 4 and 5, which show some actual embodiments, of the exemplary and non-limiting type, of textile items in accordance with the present invention, i.e. realized by means of the abovedescribed process, in its various actuation ways.

As shown above, the process of the present invention allows to realize all the knitted structures typical of seamless textile machines - i.e. plain, retained, discharged knitted fabric, drawings (reinforced), knitted fabric of floated type - with the addition of being able to simultaneously realize terrycloth knitted fabric in "needleneedle selection”.

As "floated knitted fabric” it is intended a knitted fabric produced with two threads, of which one thread realizes the base knitted fabric whereas the other thread "floats” (i.e. is discharged/floated) on some needles.

In the same way the terrycloth knitted fabric provides the use of two threads, of which one thread realizes the base knitted fabric/binding whereas the other realizes the typical curl of the terrycloth knitted fabric.

The terrycloth knitted fabric in selection can be exemplarily of "vanise terrycloth knitted fabric” type, which requires for its manufacturing the arrangement of specific sinkers appropriately profiled for this purpose. The peculiarities which characterize this typology of vanise terrycloth knitted fabric are the following: it is a knitted structure where on the right side (outside of the knitted fabric) is visible the background thread (necessary for the binding of the curl of terrycloth knitted fabric) whereas on the wrong side (inside of the knitted fabric) is visible the thread of the curl of terrycloth knitted fabric which, seen on the right side, remains precisely "in vanise” i.e. hidden under (or covered) by the background thread.

As above defined, by convention:

- the right side 4 of the knitted fabric is the outside of the fabric, i.e. the outer side of the tubular fabric as it is produced by the circular knitting machine;

- the wrong side 5 of the knitted fabric is the inside of the fabric, i.e. the inner side of the tubular fabric as it is produced by the circular knitting machine.

The use of the sinker-sinker selection, after needle-needle selection, allows to realize various textile combinations, on the same knitted row, which allow to obtain different typologies of fabrics and textile items.

It is to be noted, for example, the body 6 of the textile item 1 of figure 3 (in particular the wrong side 5): this body 6 has been produced exemplarily using a knitting machine with 8 configured falls of knitted fabric (in this case all of them) with at least one portion in terrycloth knitted fabric S. The image allows to appreciate the simultaneous presence, on successive rows R, of portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S and portions of floated knitted fabric F. In particular, this simultaneous presence is repeated - row per row - for various rows until creating a drawing/pattern at will (in this case, exemplarily, very variegated flowers).

The same applies for the body 6 of the textile item 1 exemplarily shown in figure 4, which - in addition to the composite structure of the body 6 - has terrycloth knitted fabric S also in the booton welt 7.

The textile item 1 exemplarily shown in figure 5, instead, is an item in standard non-turned mode, and therefore in this figure is observable the right side 4 of the tubular knitted fabric. In this case, the item 6 has again a simultaneous presence, on successive rows R, of portions of terrycloth knitted fabric and portions of floated knitted fabric F, however of the terrycloth knitted fabric it can be seen actually only the rear side, since the curls of terrycloth knitted fabric are on the wrong side of the knitted fabric. In any case, thanks to the booton welt 7 of the present invention, also the textile item of figure 5 shows on the right side visible portions of terrycloth knitted fabric S: these portions of terrycloth knitted fabric (the writing “S A N T 0 N I”) are present properly on the booton welt 7, and in particular on the outer layer 9.

Generally it can be noted, as clearly shown in figures, that the process of the present invention allows, together with the creation of a booton welt 7, to realize portions of the fabric which compose the textile item provided with "areas” (shaped areas) differentiated at typology level of knitted fabric (terrycloth, floated, plain knitted fabric, etc.). The designed pattern allows each row of knitted fabric to pass through/intersect, along its development, many different areas. This since on the row many different portions can be defined contemporarily (for example combined terrycloth and floated knitted fabric). Therefore, for example, a knitted row can "intersect/pass through” areas of terrycloth knitted fabric S alternated to areas of floated knitted fabric F, etc., according to the defined motif.

Analogously, it can be affirmed that different areas (for example an area in terrycloth knitted fabric and one in floated knitted fabric) show one or more rows of common knitted fabric, i.e. share portions of same rows.

The present invention obtains important advantages.

First of all, the invention allows to overcome the drawbacks of the known technique.

As it emerges from what has been above widely described, the booton welt 7 constitutes an element characterizing the present invention, particularly distinctive compared to the known solutions.

In the booton welt there is the inside of the tubular portion (i.e. the wrong side of the knitted fabric) which "emerges” on the outside of the tubular portion (i.e. the right side of the knitted fabric): therefore in the booton welt both the inner layer and the outer layer are actually constituted by knitted fabric belonging - at production level - inside the tubular portion. In the booton welt there is therefore the inside of the tubular portion which "realizes” the outside of the pocket of the booton welt itself.

Once the textile item is completed and knitted, it can be seen - in the booton welt - the knitted structure of the wrong side reported also on the right side.

Therefore the booton welt of the present invention allows to see and enhance the terrycloth knitted fabric in every mode of use of the item, both normal (not turned) and turned inside-out.

The advantage of the booton welt is the absence of the chain with caps (realized with the hooks) present instead in the traditional double welt: therefore the booton welt is "clean” on both the layers (inner and outer) and free of elements which could be unaesthetic or be perceived as defects or errors in the knitted fabric.

Another advantage of the booton welt 7 is the precise correspondence between its beginning and its end: as a matter of fact the height of the outer layer 9 corresponds to the height of the inner layer 8 (the two layers can also be constituted by a same number of rows). On the contrary, in the traditional double welt there is no correspondence between the beginning and the end of the welt itself, since the row/chain with caps reduces the height of the inner layer, which then is lower than the outer layer.

In the traditional double welt the outer and inner layers are therefore offset, whereas in the booton welt 7 match and the beginning of the outer layer 9 corresponds perfectly with the end of the inner layer 8.

Furthermore, the booton welt - which is created from the outside (right side) until entering inside (wrong side) - allows to make the terrycloth knitted fabric visible:

- both when it is produced in the body of the item, and the latter is "made visible outside” i.e. used turned inside- out;

- and on the welt, turning or not the item since one of the two layers of the booton welt (where it can be inserted the terrycloth knitted fabric) is always visible. In particular, if the item is used in standard mode (non-turned) it is visible the outer layer 9, whereas if the item is used in turned inside-out mode it is visible the inner layer 8. With the booton welt there is always at least the outer layer of the welt visible outside (if the item is normally used) or both the inner layer of the welt and the inside of the item visible outside (if the item is used overturned/outside).

To summarize:

1 : the booton welt advantageously allows not to have the chain with caps (typical instead of the traditional double welt), and this is important when it is intended to use the wrong side of the knitted fabric, on which it is present and visible the terrycloth knitted fabric, i.e. when it is intended to use the item in turned mode. In this case therefore the purpose is "to bring outside” the item avoiding to have defects in the double welt.

2: the booton welt advantageously allows to show the wrong side of the knitted fabric in the welt, and in particular to show it also in the outer layer of the welt, which is visible when the item is used in standard non-turned mode. In this case therefore the purpose is not to show the inside of the tubular portion, but rather to have the terrycloth knitted fabric directly visible on the outer layer of the booton welt, outside (right side) the item.

The advantage/purpose indicated with 1 is obtained, for example, in the items shown in figures 3-3A and 4-4A, whereas the advantage/purpose indicated with 2 is obtained, for example, in the item shown in figures 5-5A. On the contrary, the textile item shown in figures 2-2A-2B does not allow to achieve the above shown results, since provided with a traditional-type double welt. It is to be noted that the item of figure 2 is shown on the wrong side for making clear the closing "chain” of the traditional welt, however this item is not designed to be worn as turned. It is to be furthermore noted that the writing "SANT ONI” visible in the welt it is not produced in terrycloth knitted fabric but rather in standard knitted fabric using the floated knitting fabric. The traditional welt of figure 2 derives as a matter of fact from the right side of the knitted structure, i.e. from the outside of the tubular portion. The booton welt results therefore advantageous, in the enhancement of the visible terrycloth knitted fabric, in any condition, regardless of the fact that the item is used as turned or not.

The enhancement of the turned knitted structure obtainable thanks to the booton welt equally applies for each typology of turned knitted structure (and not only for the knitted fabric in terrycloth knitted fabric).

The solution of the present invention allows therefore to make it visible/externalize the structures of turned knitted fabric, in presence of booton welt and in the field of seamless. It is not limiting where such structures of turned knitted fabric are located: they can be in the booton welt, in the body of the item or in both of them. Therefore, whether it is intended to externalize the turned knitted fabric (in particular the terrycloth knitted fabric) only in the booton welt or it is intended to externalize it on the whole item, the present solution is equally advantageous.

Generally, if it is desired to realize outerwear items and/or visible items in terrycloth knitted fabric, it is advantageous to use the booton-type double welt described in the present invention.

The solution at the basis of the present invention allows to obtain a high versatility at programming level, and then to obtain various typologies of textile items, each one provided with respective peculiarities. The Applicant has verified that the textile items according to the invention have a high quality, relevant technical qualities and valuable aesthetic features.

The Applicant has also verified that the process according to the invention allows to:

- provide the necessary versatility in terms of combinations of knitted structures obtainable on a single textile item;

- produce a textile item with specific structural features able to confer certain technical properties to the item itself;

- produce a textile item with specific esthetical features and/or of comfort and wearability;

- produce a textile item characterized by a stable structure and not subject to defects or imperfections; - produce textile items in an economically competitive way;

- produce drawings, reinforced drawings and patterns, also complex and detailed, on a single textile item;

- obtain specific esthetical effects on a single textile item;

- create alternative solutions, with respect to the known technique, in the manufacturing of knitted fabric textile items, and to open new design fields in the development of textile items produced with seamless circular machines.