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Title:
A PROCESS FOR MAKING A TUBULAR KNITTED ITEM WITH A CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE FOR KNITWEAR, AND AN UPPER FOR FOOTWEAR MADE BY MEANS OF THIS PROCESS
Document Type and Number:
WIPO Patent Application WO/2023/012573
Kind Code:
A1
Abstract:
A process for making a tubular knitted item (1) comprising the steps of: programming a circular knitting machine defining a tubular knitted item (1) to be manufactured, extending longitudinally between a first opening (A) and a second opening (B) and consisting of a plurality of knitted courses in succession; defining a turning position (4), which divides the tubular item into a first fabric (5) and a second fabric (6), wherein the tubular item is configured for being manipulated so as to be at least partially turned over itself, by folding it in the turning position so that the second fabric overlaps the first fabric in order to obtain a double fabric upper (T); defining a tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10), comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge ending with the first opening, and a tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a respective knitting bulge ending with the second opening. The first opening and the second opening, as a result of the bulges of the tip portion of the first fabric and of the tip portion of the second fabric, is positioned, in the double fabric upper, on the bottom (F) of the upper, which receives a user's foot plant resting thereon. The bottom (F) of the upper exhibits a knitting continuity and is without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself, despite the presence of the first opening and of the second opening.

Inventors:
LONATI ANDREA (IT)
COTALI SILVIO (IT)
Application Number:
PCT/IB2022/056839
Publication Date:
February 09, 2023
Filing Date:
July 25, 2022
Export Citation:
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Assignee:
SANTONI & C SPA (IT)
International Classes:
D04B1/22; A43B1/04; A43B23/02; A43B23/04; D04B1/10; D04B9/20; D04B9/56
Foreign References:
IT201800010075A12020-05-06
US20170208900A12017-07-27
US10327498B22019-06-25
Attorney, Agent or Firm:
ROSA, Daniele (IT)
Download PDF:
Claims:
CLAIMS

1 . A process for making a tubular knitted item (1), by means of a circular knitting machine for knitwear, destined to represent an upper (T) for footwear, the process comprising the steps of:

- arranging a circular knitting machine having at least one feed and a needle-holding organ supporting a plurality of needles, defining a circular needle bed, which can be operated to pick up the threads dispensed by said at least one feed and to form knitted fabric; said needle-holding organ being rotatable relative to said feed and said feed being arranged in proximity to said needle-holding organ;

- programming said knitting machine so as to define a tubular knitted item (1) to be manufactured, extending longitudinally in a continuous manner between a first open end (2), defining a first opening (A), and a second open end (3), defining a second opening (B), and consisting of a plurality of knitted courses in succession;

- knitting with said circular knitting machine to make said tubular knitted item (1), destined to represent an upper (T) for footwear, in accordance with the above-mentioned programming step; wherein the step of programming said knitting machine comprises at least the following steps:

- defining, on a certain knitted course, or several knitted courses, in intermediate position between the first end (2) and the second end (3), at least one turning position (4), wherein the knitted fabric between the first end (2) and the turning position (4) represents a first fabric (10) of the tubular knitted item (1) and the knitted fabric between the turning position (4) and the second end (3) represents a second fabric (20) of the tubular knitted item (1), and wherein the tubular knitted item (1) is configured for being manipulated so as to turn it at least partially over itself, folding it on said turning position (4) so that the second fabric (20) overlaps at least partially the first fabric (10), shifting said first end (2) towards the second end (3), so as to obtain a double fabric upper (T) with the second fabric (20) at least partially wound outside the first fabric (10);

- defining a tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10), comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge, said tip portion (11) of the first fabric ending with said first opening (A) and being destined to represent a portion of the upper (T) suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof;

- defining a tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge, said tip portion (21) of the second fabric ending with said second opening (B) and being destined to represent a portion of the upper (T) suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof;

- wherein the first opening (A), as a result of the bulge of the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10), is destined to be placed, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper (T), in a position on the bottom (F) of the upper, suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon;

- wherein the second opening (B), as a result of the respective bulge of the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), is destined to be placed, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper (T), in a respective position on the bottom (F) of the upper;

- 23 - - wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), ending with the first opening (A) and with the second opening (B), respectively, are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper (T), the bottom (F) of the upper exhibits a knitting continuity and is without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself, despite the presence of the first opening (A) and of the second opening (B).

2. The process according to claim 1 , wherein the first fabric (10) is destined to represent an inner fabric of the upper (T) and the second fabric (20) is destined to represent an outer fabric of the upper (T), and/or wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper (T):

- the first opening (A) lies on an inner side (5) of the bottom (F) of the double fabric upper (T) and the second opening (B) lies on an outer side (6) of the bottom (F) of the double fabric upper (T);

- the first opening (A) faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the second fabric (20);

- the second opening (B) faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10), i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the first fabric (10); thus a knitted part belonging at least to the first fabric (10) and/or to the second fabric (20) being always present on the bottom (F) of the upper (T).

3. The process according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the upper (T), the bottom (F) of the upper always exhibits at least one fabric, and in particular:

- on the first opening (A) and on the second opening (B) the bottom (F) exhibits the second fabric (20) only or the first fabric (10) only, respectively, i.e. it is a locally single fabric bottom;

- in the remaining part of the bottom (F) both the first fabric (10) and the second fabric (20) are present, overlapping each other, and/or wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the upper (T), the bottom (F) of the upper always exhibits a double fabric except for the areas where the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) are present, in which the bottom (F) is single fabric, and/or wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the upper (T), the bottom (F) is automatically closed, i.e. without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself, and always with at least one fabric, thanks to the mutual positioning of the first opening (A) and of the second opening (B).

4. The process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the upper (T), the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) do not match, or overlap, or correspond, or face, or intersect, or contact each other, and/or wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the upper (T), the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) are separated, or distanced, from each other on the bottom (F) of the upper (T), and/or wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the upper (T), the positions of the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) are mutually offset.

5. The process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the tip portion (1 1) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the upper (T), the second opening (B) is closer to the tip of the second fabric (20), whereas the first opening (A) is farther from the tip of the first fabric (10), or vice versa, and/or wherein the second opening (B) is closer to the tip of the upper (T) than the first opening (A), and in particular the second opening (B) is closer to the tip of an extent corresponding at least to the size of the first opening (A), so that the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) do not overlap, and/or wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped differently, so that, with the item (1) manipulated so as to obtain the upper (T), the part of the first fabric (10) lying on the inner side (5) of the bottom (F) of the upper is longer than the respective part of the second fabric (20) lying on the outer side (6) of the bottom (F) of the upper, or vice versa, and/or wherein the upper (T) has a longitudinal axis (X), i.e. an axis arranged along a length development of the upper, from the heel to the tip of the upper, and wherein on the bottom (F) of the upper (T) the first opening (A) is more recessed, along the longitudinal axis (X) of the upper, than the second opening (B), or vice versa.

6. The process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein in said step of defining a tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10), the knitting bulge is obtained using, in successive courses, first an increasing or decreasing number of needles per course and then similarly a decreasing or increasing number of needles per course, and wherein in said step of defining a tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), the respective knitting bulge is obtained using, in successive courses, first an increasing or decreasing number of needles per course and then a decreasing or increasing number of needles per course, and/or wherein the process comprising a step of heat forming or heat setting, in which the tubular knitted item (1), once manipulated so as to at least partially turn it over itself for obtaining a double fabric upper (T), is placed in a heated mold giving the upper a specific three-dimensional shape, and/or wherein the knitting step with said circular knitting machine includes the use of one or more melting threads inside the tubular item (1), these melting threads being configured for stiffening during the heat forming or heat setting step, thus making the aforesaid specific three-dimensional shape of the upper (T) stable and durable in time.

7. An upper (T) for footwear made starting from a tubular knitted item (1) extending longitudinally in a continuous manner between a first open end (2), defining a first opening (A), and a second open end (3), defining a second opening (B), and consisting of a plurality of knitted courses in succession, the tubular knitted item (1) comprising, on a certain knitted course, or several knitted courses, in intermediate position between the first end (2) and the second end (3), at least one turning position (4), wherein the knitted fabric between the first end (2) and the turning position (4) represents a first fabric (10) of the tubular knitted item (1) and the knitted fabric between the turning position (4) and the second end (3) represents a second fabric (20) of the tubular knitted item (1), and wherein the tubular knitted item (1) is manipulated so as to turn it at least partially over itself, folding it on said turning position (4) so that the second fabric (20) overlaps at least partially the first fabric (10), shifting said first end (2) towards the second end (3), so as to obtain a double fabric upper (T) with the second fabric (20) at least partially wound outside the first fabric (10); the upper comprising:

- a tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10), comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge, said tip portion (11) ending with said first opening (A) and being destined to represent a portion of the upper (T) suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof,

- a tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge, said tip portion (21) of the second fabric ending with said second opening (B) and being destined to represent a portion of the upper (T) suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof, and wherein:

- the first opening (A), as a result of the bulge of the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10), is placed, on the inner side of the double fabric upper, in a position on the bottom (F) of the upper, suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon;

- the second opening, as a result of the bulge of the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), is placed, on the outer side of the double fabric upper, in a respective position on the bottom (F) of the upper, suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon;

- the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), ending with the first opening (A) and with the second opening (B), respectively, are shaped so that, in the double fabric upper (T), the bottom (F) of the upper exhibits a knitting continuity and is without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself, despite the presence of the first opening (A) and of the second opening (B).

8. The upper (T) according to claim 7, wherein the first fabric (10) represents an inner fabric of the upper and the second fabric (20) represents an outer fabric of the upper, and/or wherein:

- 26 - - the first opening (A) lies on an inner side (5) of the bottom (F) and the second opening (B) lies on an outer side (6) of the bottom (F);

- the first opening (A) faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20), i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the second fabric;

- the second opening (B) faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10), i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the first fabric; thus a knitted part belonging at least to the first fabric (10) and/or to the second fabric (20) being always present on the bottom (F) of the upper (T).

9. The upper (T) according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the bottom (F) always exhibits at least one fabric, and in particular:

- on the first opening (A) and on the second opening (B) the bottom (F) exhibits the second fabric (20) only or the first fabric (10) only, respectively, i.e. it is a locally single fabric bottom;

- in the remaining part of the bottom (F) both the first fabric (10) and the second fabric (20) are present, overlapping each other, and/or wherein the bottom (F) of the upper always exhibits at least a double fabric except for the areas where the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) are present, in which the bottom (F) is single fabric, and/or wherein the bottom (F) is automatically closed, i.e. without through openings or holes between the inside (5) and the outside (6) of the bottom itself, and always with at least one fabric, thanks to the mutual positioning of the first opening (A) and of the second opening (B).

10. The upper (T) according to any one of the claims 7 to 9, wherein the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) do not match, or overlap, or correspond, or face, or intersect, or contact each other, and/or wherein the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) are separated, or distanced, from each other on the bottom (F) of the upper, and/or wherein the positions of the first opening (A) and the second opening (B) are mutually offset, and/or wherein the tip portion (11) of the first fabric (10) and the tip portion (21) of the second fabric (20) are shaped so that the second opening (B) is closer to the tip of the second fabric (20), whereas the first opening (A) is farther from the tip of the first fabric (10), or vice versa.

11. The upper (T) according to any one of the claims 7 to 10, wherein the second opening (B) is closer to the tip of the second fabric (20) than the first opening (A) is with respect to the tip of the first fabric (10), and in particular the second opening (B) is closer to the respective tip of an extent corresponding at least to the size of the first opening (A), so that the first opening and the second opening do not overlap, and/or wherein the part of the first fabric (10) belonging to the bottom (F) of the upper, on the inner side, is longer than the respective part of the second fabric (20) belonging to the bottom (F) of the upper, on the outer side, or vice versa, and/or wherein the upper (T) has a longitudinal axis (X), i.e. an axis arranged along a length development of the upper, from the heel to the tip, and on the bottom (F) of the upper the first opening (A) is more recessed, along the

- 1 - longitudinal axis (X) of the upper, than the second opening (B), or vice versa, and/or wherein the first opening (A) is more recessed than the bulge of the tip of the first fabric (10) than the second opening (B) is with respect to the bulge of the tip of the second fabric (20), or vice versa.

12. The upper (T) according to any one of the claims 7 to 11 , wherein the knitted part of the tubular item (1) representing the upper comprises inside one or more melting threads, configured for stiffening during a heat forming or heat setting step, and wherein, by subjecting the upper (T) to a heat forming or heat setting operation in which the tubular knitted item (1), manipulated and turned over itself so as to obtain the double fabric upper, is placed in a heated mold so as to give the upper a specific three-dimensional shape, said one or more melting threads make said specific three-dimensional shape of the upper (T) stable and durable in time, and/or wherein the first open end (2), defining the first opening (A), comprises an elastic rim (15) and/or a double fabric rim (15), and/or wherein the second open end (3), defining the second opening (B), comprises a respective elastic rim (25) and/or a respective double fabric rim (25), and/or wherein the tubular knitted item (1) making the double fabric upper (T) is made as one piece, i.e. without separate parts.

13. An upper (T) for footwear made with a tubular knitted item (1) obtained by a process according to any one of the claims 1 to 6.

- 28 -

Description:
DESCRIPTION

“A process for making a tubular knitted item with a circular knitting machine for knitwear, and an upper for footwear made by means of this process”

Field of the invention

The present invention relates to a process for making a tubular knitted item by means of a circular knitting machine for knitted or hosiery items, preferably a circular weft or warp knitting machine. The present invention further relates to a shoe upper made with a tubular knitted item obtained by means of said process.

In particular, the present invention concerns a design made on a circular weft knitting machine so as to obtain a tubular knitted item, which after suitable handling has a double fabric and is destined to represent a tubular upper for shoes.

Background of the invention

It is known about the use of circular knitting machines for manufacturing tubular items designed for a shoe upper. Such tubular items, once manufactured by the knitting machine, typically undergo a series of operations, such as cutting, sewing, application of additional portions, etc., in order to obtain an upper apt to be suitably associated with a sole for making a shoe.

It is also known, when manufacturing an upper obtained by means of a circular weft knitting machine, about manufacturing a tubular knitted item which, at the end of the process, has a "double fabric”, i.e. consists of two different overlapping layers or cloths of fabric, where a cloth represents an inner fabric while the other cloth represents an outer fabric of the upper. To this purpose the tubular knitted item is produced starting from a first end, which will then represent the toe of the inner fabric (or of the outer fabric), and is manufactured on its whole length as far a second end, which will then represent the toe of the outer fabric (or of the inner fabric). The tubular knitted item thus manufactured therefore has on its whole length development the inner fabric followed, in a continuous manner, by the outer fabric (or vice versa, the outer fabric followed by the outer fabric). After being manufactured on the machine, the tubular knitted item is suitably manipulated so as to partially turn it on itself, folding the outer fabric (starting e.g. from the second end) over the inner fabric (towards the first end), until two overlapping fabrics (an inner fabric and an outer fabric) and thus a double fabric upper are obtained. It is evident that, in the middle or in another intermediate area of the tubular knitted item (placed between the first and second end), the outer fabric is turned over the inner fabric, and the resulting, double fabric upper thus develops between a front rim, in which the first and second end overlap, of the original tubular knitted item, and a rear rim or border, corresponding to the folding circumference of the outer fabric over the inner fabric.

Examples of known process for making, by means of circular knitting machines, tubular items destined to represent a shoe upper are described in patent applications W02020/065464 and WO2021/144645, issued to the same Applicant. These documents also show examples of tubular items that have been made, in particular shoe uppers. Summary

In the framework of the production of double fabric uppers by means of circular knitting machines as the ones disclosed above, the Applicant has identified the presence of some limits and drawbacks.

First of all, known double fabric uppers originate from a tubular knitted item which, due to its structure, develops necessarily between a first open end (beginning of knitting, which will then be the top portion of the inner fabric) and, at the opposite side of its length development, a second end (end of knitting, which will then be the top portion of the outer fabric): the Applicant found out that these two openings are difficult to handle during upper assembly since they are actually "holes” without fabric in the manufactured item. In known solutions, after manipulating the item so as to make it a double fabric upper, both openings match and require further assembly operations: typically, at least one of the openings is closed (by seams, as in the example shown in patent application W02020/065464), or "hidden” in the lower part of the upper and covered with the sole (which is glued below) or placed between the sole and an insole applied behind the upper. For the openings, after manipulating the tubular item, to be in the lower part of the upper, the initial and final parts of the fabric (i.e. inner tip and outer tip) have to be made with suitable shapes (i.e. knitted "bulges”), so that the openings are not in the front part of the tip of the upper. This solution is shown e.g. in the figures of patent application WO2021/144645.

Anyhow, both openings marking the beginning and end of knitting for the tubular item create, once overlapping so as to match, an open "hole” in the double fabric upper due exactly to the item being a tubular fabric originally. On this hole the upper, though having a double fabric (inner fabric and outer fabric) as a result of the manipulation of the item, is wholly without knitted fabric.

This is undoubtedly a drawback since the absence of fabric in the position of the two overlapping openings may make the upper locally uncomfortable for the user or unstable from a structural point of view, or it may prevent the upper from having the desired technical and functional characteristics.

In addition, the presence of the "double hole” consisting of the two openings may result, during the following operations, in the creation of aesthetic or functional defects in the finished upper. For instance, when closing the upper or applying the sole or insole, defects, imperfections or irregularities may originate.

In general, in particular in the framework of uppers for footwear, known processes make tubular items that may then require the addition of further knitted portions for completing the upper, or require further processing for manufacturing the upper. This may make upper manufacturing complex and/or expensive, or further require a long time to be completed.

Under these circumstances, an aim underlying the present invention, in its various aspects and/or embodiments, is to propose a process for manufacturing a tubular knitted item with a circular knitting machine, and a knitted item (in particular an upper) obtained by means of this process, which are able to solve the problems disclosed above and to overcome the limitations of known techniques. In particular, an aim of the present invention is to propose a process for manufacturing a tubular knitted item from which a double fabric, or multiple fabric, upper can be obtained, with specific structural characteristics that can impart given technical properties to the upper itself.

A further aim of the present invention is to propose a process that allows to manufacture a tubular knitted item from which an upper with specific characteristics of appearance and/or of comfort and wearability can be obtained.

A further aim of the present invention is to propose a process that allows to manufacture a tubular knitted item from which an upper characterized by a stable structure and not subject to defects or imperfections can be obtained.

A further aim of the present invention is to propose a process that allows to manufacture a tubular knitted item from which an upper that is basically ready to be provided with a sole can be obtained, to as to make a complete shoe, without the need for further complex assembly operations.

A further aim of the present invention is to propose a process that enables to manufacture shoe uppers in an economically competitive manner.

A further aim of the present invention is to create alternative solutions to the prior art for manufacturing tubular knitted items and single or double layer uppers, and/or to open new design possibilities.

These and other possible aims, which shall appear better from the following description, are basically achieved by a process for manufacturing a tubular knitted item and by a shoe upper manufactured according to one or more of the appended claims and according to the following aspects and/or embodiments, variously combined, possibly also with the aforesaid claims.

In a first aspect, the invention relates to a process for manufacturing a tubular knitted item by means of a circular knitting machine.

Preferably, the process manufactures the tubular knitted e item with an intarsia design.

Preferably, the process operates with a circular weft knitting machine.

In the present description and in the claims attached thereto, the wording "intarsia design”, as known in the field of knitwear, relates to a design made up of alternating knitted areas obtained with yarns supplied by one or more feeds of the machine, which does not have floating yarns on the reverse side, i.e. yarns connecting portions of the same knitted course that are at a distance from one another and obtained with their own yarn, and which does not have yarn cutting or trimming at the ends of each course portion making up a design area. By way of summary, "intarsia” designs are textile designs with motives, colors and knitted patterns differentiated in the various areas of the item, which do not exhibit trimmed yarns and/or can avoid the presence of floating yarns.

Intarsia designs can be made with rectilinear or circular knitting machines for knitwear or hosiery items enabling to move the feeds on which the yarns are supplied with respect to the needle-holding organ, the latter consisting either of a rectilinear needle bed or of a cylinder, or vice versa, i.e. enabling to move the needle-holding organ with respect to the feeds, according to two directions of motion opposed to one another, i.e. with a forward motion and with a backward motion (processing with alternating motion).

Generally, intarsia designs are made, when manufacturing each knitted course making up the intarsia design, by correlating and actuating the needles arranged in a section of the needle-holding organ to a feed and correlating and actuating the needles arranged in another, adjacent or neighboring, section of the needleholding organ to another feed. The number of feeds and sections of the needle-holding organ correlated thereto varies according to the number of different areas of the design to be obtained and, as disclosed above, the number of needles of each section of the needle-holding section can be varied for each course so as to vary the shape of the different areas of the intarsia design to be obtained.

The alternating motion of the needle-holding organ with respect to the feeds of the machine enables to process portions of knitted courses with yarns supplied by different feeds without cutting the yarns at the end of the corresponding portion of knitted course or without letting floating on the reverse the yarns that are not used for processing a successive portion of knitted course and waiting to be used again for forming a further portion of knitted course.

The connection of two adjacent areas of the design, processed with yarns supplied on two different feeds, is preferably obtained by actuating at least one needle, located on the boundary between the sections and belonging to either of these sections, both on the feed correlated to its groups of needles and on the feed correlated to the adjacent or neighboring group of needles.

Generally, intarsia designs are used for obtaining knitted patterns and motives consisting of areas of knitted fabric manufactured with yarns of different color or type, which are supplied to different feeds.

Some aspects of the invention are listed below.

In one aspect, the process for making a tubular knitted item comprises the steps of:

- arranging a circular knitting machine having at least one feed and a needle-holding organ supporting a plurality of needles, defining a circular needle bed, which can be operated to pick up the threads dispensed by said at least one feed and to form knitted fabric; said needle-holding organ being rotatable relative to said feed and said feed being arranged in proximity to said needle-holding organ;

- programming said knitting machine so as to define a tubular knitted item to be manufactured, extending longitudinally in a continuous manner between a first open end, defining a first (initial) opening, and a second open end, defining a second (final) opening, and consisting of a plurality of knitted courses in succession;

- knitting with said circular knitting machine to make said tubular knitted item, destined to represent an upper for footwear, in accordance with the above-mentioned programming step.

In one aspect, the step of programming said knitting machine comprises a step of defining, on a given knitted course, or several knitted courses, in intermediate position between the first end and the second end, at least one turning position, wherein the knitted fabric between the first end and the turning position represents a first fabric of the tubular knitted item and the knitted fabric between the turning position and the second end represents a second fabric of the tubular knitted item, and wherein the tubular knitted item is configured for being manipulated so as to turn it at least partially over itself, folding it on said turning position so that the second fabric overlaps at least partially the first fabric, shifting the first end towards the second end, so as to obtain at least a double fabric upper with the second fabric at least partially wound outside the first fabric.

In one aspect, the step of programming said knitting machine comprises the following steps:

- defining a tip portion of the first fabric, comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge, said tip portion ending with said first opening and being destined to represent a portion of the upper suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof,

- defining a tip portion of the second fabric, comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge, said tip portion of the second fabric ending with said second opening and being destined to represent a portion of the upper suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof.

In one aspect, the first opening, as a result of the bulge of the tip portion of the first fabric, is destined to be placed, with the item manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper, in a position on the bottom (lower portion) of the upper, said bottom being suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon.

In one aspect, the second opening, as a result of the bulge of the tip portion of the second fabric, is destined to be placed, with the item manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper, in a respective position on the bottom (lower portion) of the upper, suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon.

In one aspect, the tip portion of the first fabric and the tip portion of the second fabric, ending with the first opening and with the second opening, respectively, are shaped so that, with the item manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper, the bottom of the upper exhibits a knitting continuity and is without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself, despite the presence of the first opening and of the second opening.

In one aspect, the first fabric is destined to represent an inner fabric of the upper and the second fabric is destined to represent an outer fabric of the upper.

In one aspect, the tip portion of the first fabric and the tip portion of the second fabric are shaped so that, with the item manipulated so as to obtained the double fabric upper:

- the first opening lies on an inner side of the bottom of the double fabric upper and the second opening lies on an outer side of the bottom of the double fabric upper;

- the first opening faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion of the (underlying) second fabric (i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the second fabric and in contact with it);

- the second opening faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion of the (overlying) first fabric (i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the first fabric and in contact with it); thus a knitted part belonging at least to the first and/or to the second fabric being always present on the bottom of the upper.

In one aspect, the tip portion of the first fabric and the tip portion of the second fabric are shaped so that, with the item manipulated so as to obtain the upper, the bottom of the upper always exhibits at least one fabric, and in particular:

- on the first opening and on the second opening the bottom exhibits the second fabric only or the first fabric only, respectively, i.e. it is a locally single fabric bottom;

- in the remaining part of the bottom both the first and the second fabric are present, overlapping each other. In one aspect, the tip portion of the first fabric and the tip portion of the second fabric are shaped so that, with the item manipulated so as to obtain the upper, the bottom of the upper always exhibits a double fabric (first and second fabric) except for the areas where the first and the second openings are present, where the bottom has a single fabric.

In one aspect, the tip portion of the first fabric and the tip portion of the second fabric are shaped so that, with the item manipulated so as to obtain the upper, the first opening and the second opening do not match or overlap or face or intersect or contact each other.

In one aspect, the second opening is closer to the tip of the second fabric than the first opening is with respect to the tip of the first fabric, and in particular the second opening is closer to the respective tip of an extent corresponding at least to the size of the first opening (so that the first opening and the second opening do not overlap).

In one aspect, the tip portion of the first fabric and the tip portion of the second fabric are shaped differently, so that, with the item manipulated so as to obtain the upper, the part of the first fabric lying on the bottom of the upper (on the inner side) is longer than the respective part of the second fabric lying on the bottom of the upper (on the outer side), or vice versa.

In one aspect, the first opening is more recessed than the bulge of the tip of the first fabric than the second opening is with respect to the bulge of the tip of the second fabric, or vice versa.

In one aspect, the process comprises a step of heat forming or heat setting, in which the tubular knitted item, once manipulated so as to at least partially turn it over itself for obtaining a double fabric upper, is placed in a heated mold giving the upper a specific three-dimensional shape.

In one aspect, the knitting step with said circular knitting machine includes the use of one or more melting threads inside the tubular item, these melting threads being configured for stiffening during (or as a result of) the heat forming or heat setting step, thus making the aforesaid specific three-dimensional shape of the upper stable and durable in time. In one aspect, the heat forming/heat setting step is configured for establishing, and stabilizing, the correct mutual positioning of the first opening and of the second opening, on both fabrics representing the bottom of the upper, the heat forming/heat setting step stiffening the upper and fixing the three-dimensional shape thereof.

In one aspect, the heat forming/heat setting step causes the stabilization of the first and second fabric of the upper.

In one aspect, the heat forming/heat setting step fixes the position of the first and second opening.

In one aspect, the heat forming/heat setting step makes the first and second fabric glue to each other.

In one aspect, the heat forming/heat setting step makes the shape of the upper permanent.

In one aspect, as a result of the heat forming/heat setting step, the first and the second fabric are mutually fixed and do not move with respect to each other.

In one aspect, as a result of the heat forming/heat setting step, in each portion of the upper the double fabric becomes one double fabric, or in other words a fabric resulting from two fabrics stably overlapping (i.e. the first and the second fabric).

In one aspect, in said step of defining a tip portion of the first fabric, the knitting bulge is obtained using, in successive courses, first an increasing or decreasing number of needles per course and then a decreasing or increasing number of needles per course.

In one aspect, in said step of defining a tip portion of the second fabric, the respective knitting bulge is obtained using, in successive courses, first an increasing or decreasing number of needles per course and then a decreasing or increasing number of needles per course.

In one aspect, the knitting step with said circular knitting machine comprises the steps of:

- making the first open end, belonging to the first fabric of the knitted item, using a needle sector, or all the needles, of said needle bed;

- making the second open end, belonging to the second fabric of the knitted item, using a needle sector, or all the needles, of said needle bed.

In one aspect, the second open end of the knitted item is longitudinally opposed to the first open end, the tubular knitted item develops seamlessly, in a single piece, between the first end and the second end, and/or wherein the first and second open ends of the knitted item represent a beginning and an end, or vice versa an end and a beginning, of said knitting step with said circular knitting machine and in accordance with said programming step.

In one aspect, the first fabric and the second fabric exhibit portions corresponding to each other, so as to be facing or overlapping each other when the tubular knitted item is manipulated and turned over itself in said turning position in order to obtain the double fabric upper, except at least for the tip portions, which exhibit bulges having a different shape and size so that the first opening and the second opening do not match or face each other directly. In one aspect, the knitting step entirely produces the unitary, single-piece tubular knitted item, i.e. without separate parts.

In one aspect, the second fabric is made seamlessly with the first fabric.

In one aspect, the knitting step includes a step of making a rim of the first open end, defining the first opening, preferably an elastic rim and/or a double rim.

In one aspect, said rim of the first end is made with the needles of said circular needle bed only (i.e. the needle cylinder).

In one aspect, the knitting step includes a step of making a respective rim of the second open end, defining the second opening, preferably an elastic rim and/or a double rim.

In one aspect, said respective rim of the second end is made with the needles of said circular needle bed only (i.e. the needle cylinder).

In one aspect, in the knitting step the tubular knitted item is manufactured starting from said first end to said second end actuating for each knitted course given needle sections of the needle-holding organ with given feeds of the knitting machine, based on the definition of different areas of the tubular knitted item.

In one aspect, said turning position is a closed path, e.g. a circumference, defined on the tubular knitted item, and preferably corresponds to a circular knitted course.

In one aspect, the first opening and the second opening exhibit (are delimited by) a respective perimeter or contour defining the respective shape, and this perimeter or contour is closed and seamless.

In one aspect, after folding the second fabric, in the turning position, on the first fabric, the upper is a double fabric item and develops between a front side, in which the first end and the second end of the tubular knitted item are placed, and a rear side, corresponding to the turning position; the front side is configured for representing the toe of the upper and of the shoe thereof, and the rear side is destined to receive the user's foot inserted into it.

In one aspect, the tubular knitted item exhibits an outer side and an inner side.

In one aspect, the step of folding said second fabric on the first fabric comprises a manipulating step of the tubular knitted item that causes the insertion of the first fabric into the second fabric, the second fabric overlapping the first fabric, so that as a result the inner sides of the first fabric and of the second fabric, as manufactured by the knitting machine in the tubular knitted item, face each other in contact inside the double fabric item, and the outer side of the second fabric, as manufactured by the knitting machine, is visible outside the double fabric item and the outer side of the first fabric, as manufactured by the knitting machine, represents the inside of the double fabric item; or vice versa.

In one aspect, the step of arranging a circular knitting machine includes arranging a circular weft knitting machine for intarsia designs, i.e. knitted designs with motifs, colors and knitted patterns differentiated in the various knitted areas, though without trimmed and/or floating yarns on the reverse, the knitting machine having at least one feed and a needle-holding organ supporting a plurality of needles, which define a needle bed and can be actuated so as to take the yarns supplied by said feed and form a knitted fabric; said needle-holding organ being turnable with respect to said feed and said feed being arranged near said needle-holding organ; said needle-holding organ to be actuated with an alternating rotary motion with respect to said feed, i.e. with two opposite directions of movement, a forward and a backward movement, respectively, so as to make the needles face said feed one after the other and form a knitted fabric both in the forward and in the backward movement of said needle-holding organ with respect to said feed.

In one aspect, in said step of arranging a circular weft knitting machine for intarsia design, said knitting machine exhibits the following technical features:

- several feeds, preferably 4 feeds;

- selection of sinkers for each feed;

- possibility of manufacturing terrycloth knitted fabric, in each feed and for each needle, in both movements of the needle-holding organ, i.e. both in the forward and in the backward movement, and/or wherein each feed can deliver at least one respective yarn, in a given color and/or material, irrespective of the respective yarns of the remaining feeds, and/or wherein each feed has a plurality of yarn feeders, so that it can deliver a plurality of different yarns.

In one independent aspect thereof, the present invention relates to an upper for footwear made from a tubular knitted item extending longitudinally in a continuous manner between a first open end, defining a first (initial) opening, and a second open end, defining a second (final) opening, and consisting a plurality of successive knitted coursed, the tubular knitted item comprising, on a given knitted course, or several knitted courses, in intermediate position between the first end and the second end, at least one turning position, wherein the knitted fabric between the first end and the turning position represents a first fabric of the tubular knitted item and the knitted fabric between the turning position and the second end represents a second fabric of the tubular knitted item, and wherein the tubular knitted item is manipulated so as to turn it at least partially over itself, folding it on said turning position so that the second fabric overlaps at least partially the first fabric, shifting said second end towards the first end, so as to obtain at least a double fabric upper with the second fabric at least partially wound outside the first fabric.

In one aspect, the upper comprises:

- a tip portion of the first fabric, comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge, said tip portion ending with said first opening and being destined to represent a portion of the upper suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof,

- a tip portion of the second fabric, comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge, said tip portion of the second fabric ending with said second opening and being destined to represent a portion of the upper suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof. In one aspect:

- the first opening, as a result of the bulge of the tip portion of the first fabric, is placed, on the inner side of the double fabric upper, in a position on the bottom (lower portion) of the upper, suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon;

- the second opening, as a result of the bulge of the tip portion of the second fabric, is placed, on the outer side of the double fabric upper, in a respective position on the bottom (lower portion) of the upper, suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon.

In one aspect, the tip portion of the first fabric and the tip portion of the second fabric, ending with the first opening and with the second opening, respectively, are shaped so that, in the double fabric upper, the bottom of the upper exhibits a knitting continuity and is without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself, despite the presence of the first opening and of the second opening.

In one aspect, the first fabric represents an inner fabric of the upper and the second fabric represents an outer fabric of the upper.

In one aspect:

- the first opening is on an inner side of the bottom of the double fabric upper and the second opening is on an outer side of the bottom of the double fabric upper;

- the first opening faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion of the (underlying) second fabric (i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the second fabric and in contact with it);

- the second opening faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion of the (overlying) first fabric (i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the first fabric and in contact with it); thus a knitted part belonging at least to the first and/or to the second fabric being always present on the bottom of the upper.

In one aspect, the bottom of the upper always exhibits at least one fabric, and in particular:

- on the first opening and on the second opening the bottom exhibits the second fabric only or the first fabric only, respectively, i.e. it is a locally single fabric bottom;

- in the remaining part of the bottom both the first and the second fabric are present, overlapping each other.

In one aspect, the bottom of the upper always exhibits a double fabric (first and second fabric) except for the areas where the first and the second fabric are present, where the bottom has a single fabric.

In one aspect, the first opening and the second opening do not match or overlap or correspond or face or intersect or contact each other.

In one aspect, the first opening and the second opening are separated or distanced from each other on the bottom of the upper.

In one aspect, the positions of the first and of the second opening are offset. In one aspect, the second opening is closer to the tip of the second fabric than the first opening is with respect to the tip of the first fabric, and in particular the second opening is closer to the respective tip of an extent corresponding at least to the size of the first opening (so that the first opening and the second opening do not overlap).

In one aspect, the part of the first fabric belonging to the bottom of the upper (on the inner side) is longer than the respective part of the second fabric belonging to the bottom of the upper (on the outer side) or vice versa. In one aspect, the first open end, defining the first opening, comprises a rim made with the needles of said circular needle bed only (i.e. the needle cylinder).

In one aspect, the second open end, defining the second opening, comprises a respective rim made with the needles of said circular needle bed only (i.e. the needle cylinder).

In one aspect, the tubular knitted item making the double fabric upper is unitary and single-piece, i.e. without separate parts.

In one aspect, the outer surface of the lower side of the upper comprises a sole glued or molded directly thereon. In one aspect, the inner surface of the lower side of the upper contains an insole for increasing the footwear user's comfort or for imparting given functional properties to the shoe.

In one aspect, the upper for footwear is made with a tubular knitted item obtained by means of a process according to one or more of the above aspects and/or of the appended claims.

Further characteristics and advantages will be more evident from the detailed description of a preferred, though not exclusive, embodiment of a process for manufacturing a tubular knitted item by means of a circular knitting machine, and a double layer upper for footwear according to the present invention.

Description of the drawings

This description shall be made below with reference to the accompanying drawings, provided to a merely indicative and therefore non-limiting purpose, in which:

Figure 1 shows a tubular knitted item made by means of the process according to the present invention, in accordance with an example of embodiment; in particular, it shows a side view of the knitted item;

Figure 2 shows a magnified view of the item of Figure 1, in particular of the item portion comprising the second open end and destined to represent the outer toe of the double fabric upper;

Figure 3 shows another magnified view of the item of Figure 1 , in particular of the item portion comprising the first open end and destined to represent the inner toe of the double fabric upper;

Figure 4 is a perspective side view of the tubular knitted item of Figure 1 turned on itself and suitably manipulated and shaped so as to obtain a double fabric upper for footwear;

Figure 5 is another picture of the upper for footwear of Figure 4, in particular a perspective view from above and from behind, which allows to see the inner side of the upper made by means of the tubular knitted item of Figure 1 ; Figure 6 shows a magnified view of Figure 5, and in particular a detail of the front portion of the inner side of the upper;

Figure 7 is another picture of the upper for footwear of Figure 4, in particular a perspective view from the front and partially from above;

Figure 8 is another picture of the upper for footwear of Figure 4, in particular a perspective view from below, which allows to see the bottom of the upper.

Detailed description

With reference to the figures mentioned, the numeral 1 globally designates a tubular knitted item manufactured with a process according to the present invention.

In order to execute the process according to the present invention, a weft knitting machine with at least one feed and with a needle-holding organ supporting a plurality of needles, defining a needle bed, which can be actuated in a per se known manner in order to take the yarns supplied by this feed and form a fabric, can be used (preferably, though not exclusively). The needle-holding organ can be rotated with respect to the feed and the feed is arranged near the needle-holding organ. The needle-holding organ is actuated in a per se known manner with an alternating rotary motion with respect to the feed, i.e. according to two directions of motion opposed to one another, a forward and a backward motion, respectively, so as to make the needles in sequence face the feed and form a fabric both in the forward motion and in the backward motion of the needle holder with respect to the feed, as requested e.g. in intarsia designs.

From the point of view of knitting technology, the structure of the whole knitting machine and the operation of the needle-holding organ (e.g. the cooperation between needles and yarns, etc.) are not described in detail since they are known in the technical field of the present invention.

The process of the present invention comprises a step of programming the knitting machine so as to define a tubular knitted item 1 to be manufactured, extending longitudinally in a continuous manner between a first open end 2, defining a first opening A (initial opening), and a second open end 3, defining a second opening B (final opening), and consisting of a plurality of knitted courses in succession. An example of tubular item 1 is shown in Figure 1.

The step of programming the knitting machine comprises at least one step of defining at least one turning position 4, on a given knitted course, or several knitted courses, in intermediate position between the first end

2 and the second end 3; the knitted fabric between the first end 2 and the turning position 4 represents a first fabric 10 of the tubular knitted item 1 and the knitted fabric between the turning position 4 and the second end

3 represents a second fabric 20 of the tubular knitted item 1 .

The tubular knitted item 1 is thus configured for being manipulated so as to turn it at least partially over itself, folding it on the turning position 4 so that the second fabric 20 overlaps at least partially the first fabric 10, shifting said second end 3 towards the first end 2, so as to obtain a double fabric upper T with the second fabric 20 at least partially wound outside the first fabric 10.

The result of manipulating the tubular knitted item 1 and of folding the two fabrics 10 and 20 is shown in Figure 4, which shows the resulting double fabric upper T. Conversely, as an alternative and in an equivalent manner, the manipulation can be executed so that the first fabric 10 at least partially overlaps the second fabric 20, shifting the first end towards the second end, so as to obtain a double fabric upper T with the first fabric at least partially wound outside the second fabric.

In a possible embodiment, the first fabric and the second fabric can be inverted, i.e. the knitted fabric between the first end and the turning position represents the second fabric of the tubular knitted item and the knitted fabric between the turning position and the second end represents the first fabric of the tubular knitted fabric; in this case, when the tubular knitted item is manipulated so as to be turned at least partially over itself, by folding it in the turning position, the first fabric at least partially overlaps the second fabric, shifting the second end towards the first end, so as to obtain at least a double fabric item with the first fabric at least partially wound outside the second fabric.

The definition of the first and of the second end of the tubular knitted item, and of the first and second fabric, can take place as a function of the characteristics to be obtained on the double fabric item (which will be the shoe upper) as a result of the turning operations.

It should be observed that the folding operation, as a result of which a fabric overlaps the other or a fabric is inserted into the other, preferably occurs so that as a result the inner sides of the first and second fabric (i.e. the inside of the item not yet folded) get in contact with each other inside the "double fabric”, whereas the outer side of the first fabric is visible outside the double fabric item (and vice versa the outer side of the second fabric represents the inside of the double fabric item).

The process of the present invention comprises a step of defining a tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10, comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge; the tip portion 11 ends with the first opening A and is destined to represent a portion of the upper T suitable for accommodating enclosing the foot toe or part thereof.

The process of the present invention comprises a step of defining a tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20, comprising a certain number of knitted courses and consisting of a knitting bulge; the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 ends with the second opening B and is destined to represent a portion of the upper suitable for accommodating or enclosing the foot toe or part thereof.

In the process of the present invention the first opening A, as a result of the bulge of the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10, is designed to be placed, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtained the double fabric T, in a position on the bottom F (i.e. the lower portion) of the upper T, which is suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon. In the process of the present invention the second opening B, as a result of the bulge of the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20, is destined to be placed, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper T, in a position on the bottom F of the upper T, which is suitable for receiving a user's foot plant resting thereon. Moreover, in the process of the present invention the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20, ending with the first opening A and with the second opening B, respectively, are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper T, the bottom F of the upper exhibits a knitting continuity and is without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself of the upper T, despite the presence of the first opening A and of the second opening B.

It should be pointed out that the bottom F of the upper T is the part accommodating the foot base and actually presents an integral insole of the shoe.

The tip portions 11 and 21 of the first fabric 10 and of the second fabric 20 are shown in further detail in Figures 2 and 3, which are two magnified views of Figure 1.

The result of the process described above, once the definition of the parts of the tubular knitted item is over, after manufacturing the knitted portion of the items itself and after manipulating/folding it so as to obtain the double fabric upper T, is shown in Figures 4-8.

As can be seen, the first fabric 10 is preferably destined to represent an inner fabric of the upper T and the second fabric 20 is destined to represent an outer fabric of the upper T.

Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the double fabric upper T:

- the first opening A lies on an inner side 5 of the bottom F of the double fabric upper and the second opening B lies on an outer side 6 of the bottom F of the double fabric upper;

- the first opening A faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion 21 of the (underlying) second fabric 20 (i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the second fabric and in contact with it);

- the second opening B faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion 11 of the (overlying) first fabric 10 (i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the first fabric and in contact with it); thus a knitted part belonging at least to the first fabric 10 and/or to the second fabric 20 is always present on the bottom F of the upper T.

This result is shown in particular in Figures 5-6 and 8:

- in Figures 5 and 6 the inner side 5 of the bottom F of the upper can be seen and it can be observed that the first opening A has above it a knitted part belonging to the second fabric 20 and this knitted part actually "closes” the first opening A;

- in Figure 8 the outer side 6 of the bottom F of the upper can be seen and it can be observed that the second opening B has above it a knitted part belonging to the first fabric 10 and this knitted part actually "closes” the second opening B. Globally, in this configuration the bottom F is completely closed and has a knitting continuity, although the first opening A and the second opening B are still present on the first and on the second fabric (considered individually).

Figure 6 shows, seen from the inner side 5 of the bottom F, the presence of the underlying second opening B (in hatched lines since it lies on the outer side 6).

Similarly, Figure 8 shows, seen from the outer side 6 of the bottom F, the presence of the first opening B (in hatched lines since it lies on the inner side 5).

Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the upper T, the bottom F of the upper always exhibits at least one fabric, and in particular:

- on the first opening A and on the second opening B the bottom exhibits the second fabric 20 only or the first fabric 10 only, respectively, i.e. it is a locally single fabric bottom;

- in the remaining part of the bottom F both the first fabric 10 and the second fabric 20 are present, overlapping each other.

Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the upper T, the bottom F of the upper always exhibits a double fabric (first and second fabric 10 and 20) except for the areas where the first and the second openings A and B are present, where the bottom F has a single fabric.

Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the upper T, the bottom F is automatically closes, i.e. without through openings or holes between the inner side 5 and the outer side 6 of the bottom itself, and always with at least one fabric (10 and/or 20), thanks to the mutual positioning of the first opening A and of the second opening B.

Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the upper T, the first opening A and the second opening B do not match or overlap or face or intersect or contact each other.

Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the upper T, the first opening A and the second opening B are separated or distanced from each other on the surface of the bottom F of the upper.

Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the upper T- the positions of the first and of the second opening A and B are offset with respect to each other. Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the upper T, the second opening B s closer to the tip of the second fabric 20 whereas the first opening A is father from the tip of the first fabric 10, or vice versa.

Preferably, the second opening B is closer to the tip of the upper T than the first opening A, and in particular the second opening B is closer to the tip of an extent corresponding at least to the size of the first opening A (so that the first opening A and the second opening B do not overlap).

Similarly, as can be seen in particular in Figure 8, the first opening A is distanced from the top of an extent corresponding at least to the sum of the distance of the second opening B from the tip and of the size of the second opening itself (or even more).

Preferably, the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20 are shaped differently, so that, with the item 1 manipulated so as to obtain the upper T, the part of the first fabric lying on the bottom F of the upper (on the inner side 5) is longer than the respective part of the second fabric lying on the bottom of the upper (on the outer side 6), or vice versa. Basically, in accordance with the embodiment shown by way of example in the Figures, the present invention differentiates the length of the tips (of the inner and outer fabric 10 and 20) so as to separate the two openings A and B.

Preferably, the upper T exhibits a longitudinal axis X, i.e. an axis arranged along a length development of the upper, which goes from the heel to the toe of the upper.

Preferably, on the bottom F of the upper T the first opening A is more recessed along the longitudinal axis X of the upper than the second opening B, or vice versa.

Preferably, the first opening A is more recessed than the bulge of the tip of the first fabric than the second opening B is with respect to the bulge of the tip of the second fabric, or vice versa.

Preferably, the process comprises a step of heat forming or heat setting, in which the tubular knitted item 1, once manipulated so as to at least partially turn it over itself for obtaining a double fabric upper T, is placed in a heated mold giving the upper a specific three-dimensional shape.

Preferably, the knitting step with the circular knitting machine includes the use of one or more melting threads inside the tubular item 1 ; these melting threads are configured for stiffening during (or as a result of) the heat forming or heat setting step, thus making the aforesaid specific three-dimensional shape of the upper T stable and durable in time.

It should be pointed out that the correct mutual positioning of the first opening A and of the second opening B, on both fabrics 10 and 20 representing the bottom F of the upper T, is preferably achieved as a result of the heat forming/heat setting step, which stiffens the upper and fixes its three-dimensional shape: thus both fabrics 10 and 20 of the upper T are stabilized and, similarly, the position of the first and of the second opening A and B is fixed. The heat forming/heat setting operation makes the first and the second fabric glue to each other and makes the shape of the upper permanent: thus the first and the second fabric are mutually fixed and do not move one with respect to the other. Therefore, in each portion of the upper the double fabric actually becomes one double fabric, or in other words a fabric resulting from two fabrics stably overlapping (i.e. the first and the second fabric).

Preferably, in the step of defining a tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10, the knitting bulge is obtained using, in successive courses, first an increasing or decreasing number of needles per course and then a decreasing or increasing number of needles per course.

Preferably, in the step of defining a tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20, the respective knitting bulge is obtained using, in successive courses, first an increasing or decreasing number of needles per course and then a decreasing or increasing number of needles per course.

Preferably, the knitting step with the circular knitting machine comprises the steps of:

- making the first open end 2, belonging to the first fabric 10 of the knitted item 1, using a needle sector, or all the needles, of the needle bed;

- making the second open end 3, belonging to the second fabric 20 of the knitted item 1 , using a needle sector, or all the needles, of the needle bed.

Preferably, the second end 3 of the knitted item 1 is longitudinally opposed to the first open end 2, and the tubular knitted item 1 develops in a continuous manner, as one piece, between the first end and the second end. Preferably, the first and the second end 2 and 3 of the knitted item 1 represent a beginning and an end, or vice versa an end and a beginning, of the knitting step with the circular knitting machine and in accordance with the programming step.

Preferably, as can be seen in Figure 1 , the first fabric 10 and the second fabric 20 exhibit portions corresponding to each other (from the point of view of shape), so as to be facing or overlapping each other when the tubular knitted item 1 is manipulated and turned over itself in the turning position 4 in order to obtain the double fabric upper T, except at least for the two tip portions 11 and 21 , which exhibit bulges having a different shape and size so that the first opening A and the second opening B do not match or face each other directly.

Preferably, the process may include an optional step of closing the first open end 2 of the first fabric 10.

This step of closing the first end 2 can take place directly on the knitting machine manufacturing the knitted item 1 , before it is unloaded from the knitting machine, or after unloading the knitted item.

Preferably, the process may include an optional step of closing the second open end 3 of the second fabric 20. This step of closing the second end 3 can take place directly on the knitting machine manufacturing the knitted item, before it is unloaded from the knitting machine, or after unloading the knitted item.

Preferably, the knitting step entirely manufactures the unitary, single-piece tubular knitted item 1 , i.e. without separate parts.

Preferably, as shown in Figure 1 , the second fabric 20 is made seamlessly with the first fabric 10. Preferably, the knitting step includes a step of making a rim 15 of the first open end 2, defining the first opening A, preferably an elastic rim and/or a double rim.

Preferably, the rim 15 of the first end A is made with the needles of the circular needle bed only (i.e. the needle cylinder).

Preferably, the knitting step includes a step of making a respective rim 25 of the second open end 3, defining the second opening B, preferably an elastic rim and/or a double rim.

Preferably, the respective rim 25 of the second end B is made with the needles of the circular needle bed only (i.e. the needle cylinder).

Preferably, in the knitting step with the circular knitting machine for manufacturing the tubular knitted item 1 :

- the knitted fabric is obtained by actuating the needles according to a combination of the following technical ways:

- non-operating needle;

- withdrawn needle;

- unloaded needle.

In addition, or a an alternative, the knitted fabric can be an open-work knitted fabric.

In addition, or a an alternative, the knitted fabric can be an terrycloth knitted fabric.

Preferably, the terrycloth knitted fabric can be:

- full terrycloth, i.e. a terrycloth knitted fabric manufactured by making a terrycloth stitch for each needle; and/or

- half terrycloth, i.e. a terrycloth knitted fabric manufactured by alternating terrycloth stitches and non-terrycloth stitches; and/or

- terrycloth with motifs, i.e. a terrycloth knitted fabric manufactured so as to obtain given shapes or texts. Preferably, in the step of manufacturing knitted fabric (in particular intarsia knitted fabric), the tubular knitted item 1 is manufactured starting from the first end 2 to the second end 3 actuating for each knitted course given needle sections of the needle-holding organ with given feeds of the knitting machine, based on the definition of the different areas of the tubular knitted item.

Preferably, the turning position 4 is a closed path, e.g. a circumference, defined on the tubular knitted item, and preferably corresponds to a circular knitted course.

Preferably, the first opening A and the second opening B exhibit (i.e. are delimited by) a respective perimeter or contour defining the respective shape, and this perimeter or contour is closed and seamless.

Preferably, after folding the second fabric 20, in the turning position 4, on the first fabric 10, the upper T is a double fabric item and develops between a front side 51 , in which the first end 2 and the second end 3 of the tubular knitted item 1 are placed, and a rear side 52, corresponding to the turning position 4: the front side 51 is configured for representing the toe of the upper and of the shoe thereof, and the rear side 52 is destined to receive the user's foot inserted into it. Preferably, the tubular knitted item 1 as manufactured by the knitting machine exhibits an outer side and an inner side.

In the configuration of the double fabric item 1 as a shoe upper T, shown by way of example in Figures 4-8, the first fabric 10 represents the inner fabric of the upper, whereas the second fabric 20 represents the outer fabric of the upper. Moreover, the outer part of the first fabric 10 (considering the original machine production of the tubular knitted item 1) becomes the part in contact with the user's foot, whereas the outer part of the second fabric 20 is visible outside the upper T.

In other words, the folding of the second fabric 20 on the first fabric 10 is obtained by manipulating the tubular knitted item 1, which causes the insertion of the first fabric 10 into the second fabric 20, the second fabric overlapping the first fabric, so that as a result the inner sides 8A and 8B of the first fabric 10 and of the second fabric 20, respectively, as manufactured by the knitting machine, face each other in contact inside the double fabric upper T, and the outer side of the second fabric 20, as manufactured by the knitting machine, is visible outside the double fabric upper and the outer side of the first fabric 10, as manufactured by the knitting machine, represents the inside of the double fabric upper T.

It should be noted that the resulting double fabric upper T has outside the outer side of the second fabric 20 and inside the outer side of the first fabric 10. This can be achieved without floating and/or trimmed yarns since the item is manufactured with an intarsia design.

Preferably, though not necessarily, the circular knitting machine used for implementing the process of the present invention, can have the following technical characteristics:

- several feeds, preferably 4 feeds;

- selection of sinkers for each feed;

- possibility of manufacturing terrycloth knitted fabric, in each feed and for each needle, in both movements of the needle-holding organ, i.e. both in the forward and in the backward movement;

- possibility of manufacturing openwork knitted fabric, in each feed and for each needle, in both movements of the needle-holding organ, i.e. both in the forward and in the backward movement.

Preferably, each feed can deliver at least one respective yarn, in a given color and/or material, irrespective of the respective yarns of the remaining feeds.

Preferably, each feed has a plurality of yarn feeders, so that it can deliver a plurality of different yarns. For instance, it is possible to have at least four different colors and therefore manufacture terrycloth knitted fabric simultaneously with four or more different colors on the same course.

A shoe upper T according to the present invention is described below.

A practical example of this upper is shown in Figures 4-8 in a non-limiting manner.

The shoe upper T is manufactured starting from a tubular knitted item 1 as described above, which comprises:

- the first open end 2, defining the first opening A; - the second open end 3, defining the second opening B;

- the turning position 4;

- the first fabric 10 and the second fabric 6.

The tubular knitted item is then manipulated as described above, so as to obtain the double fabric upper T.

The upper T comprises:

- the tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10, so that the first opening A lies in the inner side of the upper and in a position on the bottom of the upper;

- the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20, so that the second opening B lies in the outer side of the upper and in a respective position on the bottom of the upper.

The tip portion 11 of the first fabric 10 and the tip portion 21 of the second fabric 20, ending with the first opening A and with the second opening B, respectively, are shaped so that, in the double fabric upper T, the bottom F of the upper exhibits a knitting continuity and is without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself, despite the presence of the first opening A and of the second opening B.

Preferably, the first fabric 10 represents an inner fabric of the upper T and the second fabric 20 represents an outer fabric of the upper T.

Preferably, in the upper T:

- the first opening A is on the inner side 5 of the bottom F of the double fabric upper and the second opening B is on the outer side 6 of the bottom F of the double fabric upper;

- the first opening A faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion of the (underlying) second fabric (i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the second fabric and in contact with it);

- the second opening B faces the knitted part belonging to the tip portion of the (overlying) first fabric (i.e. it lies on a knitted part of the first fabric and in contact with it); thus a knitted part belonging at least to the first fabric 10 and/or to the second fabric 20 is always present on the bottom of the upper.

Preferably, the bottom F of the upper T always has at least one fabric, and in particular:

- on the first opening A and on the second opening B the bottom F exhibits the second fabric 20 only or the first fabric 10 only, respectively, i.e. it is a locally single fabric bottom;

- in the remaining part of the bottom F both the first and the second fabric are present, overlapping each other. Preferably, the bottom F of the upper T always exhibits a double fabric (first and second fabric) except for the areas where the first and the second fabric are present, where the bottom has a single fabric.

Preferably, the bottom F is automatically closed, i.e. without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself, and always with at least one fabric, thanks to the mutual positioning of the first opening A and of the second opening B. Preferably, the first opening A and the second opening B do not match or overlap or correspond or face or intersect or contact each other.

Preferably, the part of the first fabric 10 belonging to the bottom F of the upper (on the inner side) is longer than the respective part of the second fabric 20 belonging to the bottom F of the upper (on the outer side) or vice versa.

Preferably, the knitted part of the tubular item 1 representing the upper comprises inside one or more melting threads, configure for stiffening during (or as a result of) a heat forming or heat setting step. Thus, by subjecting the upper to a heat forming or heat setting operation in which the tubular knitted item, manipulated and turned over itself so as to obtain the double fabric upper, is placed in a heated mold so as to give the upper a specific three-dimensional shape, said one or more melting threads make said specific three-dimensional shape of the upper stable and durable in time.

Optionally, regardless of the presence or absence of melting threads, the upper T can anyhow be subjected to a heat forming or heat setting operation in which it is placed in a heated mold so as to give the upper a specific three-dimensional shape.

Preferably, the tubular knitted item 1 making the double fabric upper T is unitary and single-piece, i.e. without separate parts.

Preferably, the outer surface of the lower side of the upper T comprises a sole glued or molded directly thereon. Preferably, the inner surface of the lower side of the upper T may contain an insole for increasing the footwear user's comfort or for imparting given functional properties to the shoe.

The invention achieves important advantages.

First of all, the invention allows to overcome the drawbacks of prior art.

In particular, the invention allows to manufacture a tubular knitted item from which a double fabric knitted upper can be obtained, with specific structural characteristics that can impart given technical properties to the upper itself.

Moreover, the invention allows to manufacture a tubular knitted item from which a double fabric upper can be obtained, with specific technical features, in terms of comfort, wearability, cushioning or shock absorption, and/or perspiration. The upper that can be obtained with the process of the present invention has characteristics of stability and durability.

In particular, as can be inferred from the preceding description, the process of the present invention allows to obtain a double fabric upper for footwear in which the bottom is already automatically closed, although the upper is made starting from a tubular item having an initial opening and a final opening. This is a surprising result since the present invention allows to obtain a double fabric upper automatically provided with a closed bottom, without the need for closing operations on the initial and final openings. This result is even more relevant if we consider that the tubular knitted item is manufactured with a circular knitting machine which necessarily produces knitted items with an initial and a final opening, typically requiring specific additional closing operations so as to prevent the upper from having unwanted openings on the bottom.

Obtaining a double fabric upper having a double bottom that is already closed and exhibits a knitting continuity on its whole development (despite the initial and final opening of the tubular item) allows to achieve important advantages. For instance, the constant presence on the bottom of the upper of at least one fabric makes the upper/shoe more comfortable and cozy, since the user does not feel the presence of holes/through openings under his/her foot (or feels such a presence much less than an upper according to the state of the art). This allows to overcome the technical drawback of known solutions, which describe double fabric upper always having a "hole” on the fabricless bottom, due to the opening of the initial tubular item.

Moreover, the upper of the present invention may be completed directly by applying a sole to the bottom of the upper, which is already closed and thus ready to receive the sole.

Moreover, the upper of the present invention is highly suitable for manufacturing shoes in which the sole is molded/injected directly in liquid form onto the bottom of the upper. It should be pointed out that in this type of shoes the fabric of the upper is placed in a mold positioned under the bottom and then an amount of liquid material (e.g. rubber), which shall then be the sole of the shoe, is injected directly onto the bottom. In this process (instead of gluing a preformed sole onto the bottom of the upper) the material of the sole is injected and cooled directly on the bottom of the upper, so that the material stably "grabs” the bottom of the upper. Well, this process is difficult to carry out with known double fabric upper, since these have through openings on the bottom (as shown by way of example in the aforesaid prior art documents W02020/065464 and WO2021/144645) due to the way in which the upper is manufactured starting from a tubular item. These openings on the bottom are a problem since, during the injection of the sole material, part of this material may get through the openings on the bottom and then ascend inside the upper; this is clearly unacceptable and therefore requires complex additional operations (e.g. sewing/closing the openings on the bottom and/or using counter-molds inside the upper during injection).

Conversely, the upper of the present invention is already automatically ready for the injection of liquid material so as to form a sole directly on the bottom, since the bottom always exhibits a knitting continuity and is without through openings or holes between the inside and the outside of the bottom itself.

The present invention therefore allows to obtain a tubular knitted item from which an upper that is basically ready to be provided with a sole can be obtained, to as to make a complete shoe, without the need for further complex assembly operations.

The process of the present invention allows to manufacture shoe uppers with high structural features and in an economically competitive manner.