AREA OF INVENTION

[0001] The present invention refers to the area of cosmetics and refers to a new method for evaluating sensory perception of new products for launch.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

[0002] Many people have a strong perception that most of their decisions are consciously made. In reality, subconscious factors contribute more to decision making. As a result, it can be difficult for one to explain or even predict own decision making in various situations. Therefore, consumer good companies constantly study the behavior of consumers to better understand their needs to drive acceptance of its products in the market.

[0003] In an ever-changing landscape, the shattering new reality is to reset relationship status between producers and consumers from being "it's complicated" to "in a relationship". Thus, research needs to do more to capture the subconscious mind. Age, culture, gender and a host of factors influence how we react to a sensorial stimulation. A large proportion of mental activity is also influenced by past experiences, often impacting decisions made.

[0004] Instances of major failures of new product launches, particularly cosmetic compounds like fragrances are not at all uncommon. Most of these products would have been extensively tested, using traditional methods, with consumers before launching. However, the unavoidable systematic bias that arises in traditional research can result in misleading conclusions. Furthermore, explicit traditional research does not address the controversy between novelty versus addiction to the product that sometimes leads to weak performance of the product even after winning significantly in the product test.

RELEVANT PRIOR ART

[0005] Emotion recognition for example from EEG is well-known for many applications as it allows determining the "inner" emotion regardless of the human facial expression, behavior, or verbal communication. For example, Saurina et al suggest a fractal dimension (FD) based emotion recognition algorithm using an Arousal-Valence emotion model. According to this proposal FD values calculated from the EEG signal recorded from the corresponding brain lobes are mapped to the 2D emotion model (In Proceedings of the International Conference on Bio-inspired Systems and Signal Processing [BIOSIGNALS, p209-214 (2011)]. Boucsein et al describe fundamental techniques of EDA recording, namely endosomatic recording without the application of an external current, exosomatic recording with direct current, and exosomatic recording with alternating current [Psychophysiology, 18(3) p 232- 239. (1981)]

[0006] CN 112842946 A1 (HUBAI BIOTECH) discloses a cosmetic composition with a nerve soothing effect verified by an electroencephalogram method and a preparation method of the cosmetic composition.

[0007] KR 20090051921 A (AMOREPACIFIC) refers to complex flavor containing perfume composition inducing romantic feelings. The effects are determined by skin resistance index of EEG electroencephalogram (EEG) and the autonomic nervous system physiological value (GSR).

OBJECT OF THE INVENTION

[0008] Therefore, it has been the object of the present invention providing a method for evaluating physiological and explicit responses of consumers to sensate products in comparison with a placebo to determine product acceptance and liking, mood benefits and alignment with imagery, concept and benefits.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0009] A first object of the present invention refers to a method for evaluating sensory perception of one or more active agents using neurometic, biometric and/or psychometric data collected from a panel of individuals comprising the following steps:

(a) providing a group of panelists;

(b) providing at least one active substance to be evaluated;

(c) providing a placebo;

(d) bringing each panelist into contact with at the least one active agent;

(e) bringing each panelist into contact with the placebo;

(f) determining the responses of each panelist to said at least one active agent and the placebo obtained from an explicit survey;

(g) determining the responses of each panelist to said at least one active agent and the placebo obtained from at least one of the following methods

(i) electroencephalography (EEG);

(ii) galvanic skin response (GSR); (iii) photoplethysmography (PPG); and

(iv) eye tracking; and

(h) comparing the results from step (f) and step (h).

[0010] Surprisingly it has been observed, that the support of subjective interview results by combining them with objective neurometric, biometric and psychometric data provide a holistic 360° view of the customer which helps avoiding mistakes and misjudgments in the selection and prioritization of alternative products to be introduced into the market.

[0011] Using a broader and more objective array of data collection modes as proposed by the present invention reduces both the random and systematic bias that are endemic in traditional consumer research surveys. As such, the outputs of the system have shown to be much more sensitive to the characteristics of the actives being tested, conferring upon additional statistical power and thus allowing to achieve greater precision when discriminating between different product alternatives. The chances of false negative results are significantly reduced: Where a consumer preference exists, the proposed method has a better chance of detecting it.

[0012] In a first preferred embodiment said perception is an olfactory, cooling or warming sensation.

[0013] In another embodiment said active agents are cosmetic raw materials selected from the group consisting of fragrances, aroma compounds and physiological cooling and/or warming agents.

[0014] In another embodiment said panelists are brought into contact with said at least one active agent and said placebo either by topical or oral administration.

Definitions

[0015] Explicit survey means any type of empirical study in which a panel of testers under identical circumstances must evaluate the subjective sensation that two or more test substances to be compared elicit in them. The assessment can be made in direct comparison of the test substances against each other, but also relative to a standard (placebo). The size and selection of participants in the study are based on the nature of the product under investigation. Typically, the number of participants should not be less than 10, unless they are pretrained testers, such as perfumers in the evaluation of new fragrance creations. The number of test series can be between 1 and 4, with the mean values of the test results being determined in each case and used for further evaluation.

[0016] Electroencephalography (EEG) means a method to record an electrogram of the electrical activity on the scalp that has been shown to represent the macroscopic activity of the surface layer of the brain underneath. It is typically non-invasive, with the electrodes placed along the scalp. Electrocorticography, involving invasive electrodes, is sometimes called "intracranial EEG". EEG measures voltage fluctuations resulting from ionic current within the neurons of the brain. Clinically, EEG refers to the recording of the brain's spontaneous electrical activity over a period of time, as recorded from multiple electrodes placed on the scalp. Diagnostic applications generally focus either on event-related potentials or on the spectral content of EEG. The former investigates potential fluctuations time locked to an event, such as 'stimulus onset' or 'button press'. The latter analyses the type of neural oscillations (popularly called "brain waves") that can be observed in EEG signals in the frequency domain.

[0017] Galvanic skin response (GSR) refers to an electrodermal activity which means the property of the human body that causes continuous variation in the electrical characteristics of the skin. Historically, EDA has also been known as skin conductance, galvanic skin response (GSR), electrodermal response (EDR), psychogalvanic reflex (PGR), skin conductance response (SCR), sympathetic skin response (SSR) and skin conductance level (SCL); these terms are used synonymously. The traditional theory of EDA holds that skin resistance varies with the state of sweat glands in the skin. Sweating is controlled by the sympathetic nervous system, and skin conductance is an indication of psychological or physiological arousal. If the sympathetic branch of the autonomic nervous system is highly aroused, then sweat gland activity also increases, which in turn increases skin conductance. In this way, skin conductance can be a measure of emotional and sympathetic responses.

[0018] Photoplethysmography (PPG) means a method to detect blood volume changes in the microvascular bed of tissue. A PPG is often obtained by using a pulse oximeter which illuminates the skin and measures changes in light absorption. A conventional pulse oximeter monitors the perfusion of blood to the dermis and subcutaneous tissue of the skin. With each cardiac cycle the heart pumps blood to the periphery. Even though this pressure pulse is somewhat damped by the time it reaches the skin, it is enough to distend the arteries and arterioles in the subcutaneous tissue. If the pulse oximeter is attached without compressing the skin, a pressure pulse can also be seen from the venous plexus, as a small secondary peak. The change in volume caused by the pressure pulse is detected by illuminating the skin with the light from a light-emitting diode and then measuring the amount of light either transmitted or reflected to a photodiode.

[0019] Eye tracking means the process of measuring either the point of gaze (where one is looking) or the motion of an eye relative to the head. An eye tracker is a device for measuring eye positions and eye movement. Eye trackers are used in research on the visual system, in psychology, and in psycholinguistics, marketing. The most popular variant uses video images from which the eye position is extracted. EXAMPLES

General explanation of the testings

[0020] The following examples were conducted using two different physiological cooling agents, namely menthyl lactate (Frescolat® ML) and Menthyl Ethylamido Oxalate (Frescolat® Xcool) (both Symrise AG) versus a placebo.

[0021] All tests were conducted with a panel of 35 females of age 18 to 45. Each panelist tested both products and placebo at similar times on separate days as part of a balanced rotation. The facility temperature was maintained at 24°C during the tests. Upon arrival at the facility, the respondent would clean her face with micellar water and cotton or tissue. The respondent would only begin the test after being in the facility for 20 minutes. The product was applied to face and left on for a period of 20 minutes.

Example 1 Explicit survey

[0022] Cooling effect as such and cooling intensity was determined by the panelists. Intensity was rated on a scale from 1 = poor to 5 (=very strong). The panelists were also asked whether they liked the product and whether they would intend to buy it. The results are reflected in

Table 1:

Table 1

Explicit survey

[0023] Most respondents indicated a cooling effect from the products and placebo although this was significantly elevated in the case of ML. ML also had most intense cooling effect with Xcool showing only modestly higher intensity vs placebo. Both products were liked more than the placebo but only Xcool showed a modest outperformance in purchase intention. Figure 1 shows further attributes associated with the three products the panelists were asked for in form of a spider diagram. Example 2

EEG - Liking as a function of time

[0024] Protocol: EEG was recorded using the CGX Quick-20 dry headset with a sampling rate of 500Hz. A one minute baseline recording was made just prior to application of the product. The EEG recording was cleaned using an automated procedure based on Independent Components Analysis to remove elements of the signal that were not due to brain activity (e.g. head movement, eye-blinks). Using electrode positions F3 and F4, a metric of frontal asymmetry of the Higuchi fractal dimension of the cleaned signal was computed on overlapping 2 second windows of the signal as a measure of liking. For each respondent this metric was normalized, based on the mean and standard deviation computed during the baseline period.

The aggregate results are shown in Figure 2. Both products were more liked than the placebo initially and this effect persisted over time, with the separation being pronounced and consistent in the second 10 minutes after application. Xcool was marginally more liked than ML in aggregate.

Example 3

EEG - Relaxation as a function of time

[0025] Protocol: EEG recorded and processed as in [0024] but now with a metric designed to measure relaxation. This metric was computed based on the power of the signal at the Pz electrode position falling into the theta band.

The aggregate results are shown in Figure 3. Compared with the placebo, Xcool had very little impact on relaxation levels over time whereas ML had a more stimulative effect that persisted over time.

Example 4

GSR - Proportion of panellists showing arousal over time

[0026] Protocol: GSR was recorded using the Shimmer3 GSR+ unit with a sampling rate of 128Hz. A peak detection algorithm was applied to the raw GSR signal to determine the arousal state of each respondent during 5 second windows with the output either being aroused or not aroused.

The aggregate results are shown in Figure 4. None of the products induced effects in skin response compared with the placebo, indicating no strong arousal or intense reaction to the products.

Example 5

PPG - Calibrated heart beats per minute over time [0027] Protocol: PPG was recorded using the Shimmer3 GSR+ unit with a sampling rate of 128Hz. An algorithm to identify the period of the PPG waveform was used to determine the heart rate. The heart rate calculation was referenced against what was measured during a one minute baseline period before application.

The aggregate results are shown in Figure 5. Average Heart Rates remained in a tight range for both products, within 2 beats per minute of results obtained with the placebo. This confirms the findings from the skin response.

Example 6

Contract eye tracking (all days) compared to EEG Liking

[0028] Protocol: The Tobii X2-30 screen based eye-tracker was used to measure the distribution of visual attention of respondents toward an image. The concept image was displayed on the screen for 10 seconds and eye-tracking was recorded along with the EEG liking metric as in [0024],

The results are shown in Figure 6. The image of the lime, fan and bottle attracted the most attention from respondents after experiencing the products. Liking of the concept was enhanced for respondents who had just experienced Xcool.

Example 7

Contract eye tracking (only first day) compared to EEG Liking

[0029] Protocol: The computation of results in [0028] was restricted to first day recordings, i.e. only recordings where respondents were seeing the concept image for the first time.

The results are shown in Figure 7. The image of the lime, fan and bottle attracted the most attention from respondents after experiencing the products. Liking of the concept was enhanced for respondents who had just experienced Xcool.

Conclusions

[0030] Based on both EEG and explicit surveys, both ML and X-cool were well liked by respondents. The cooling effect was stronger and more perceptible for ML which manifested in a moderate fall in relaxation levels after application. Compared with ML, X-cool was marginally more liked on aggregate, based on the EEG measurement, and also had more pronounced associations with the concept imagery and a number of the target attributes.