Technical Field

The invention relates to a machine which performs sewing operations defined as serging or overcasting and side seam operations for denim, chino, fabric trousers and similar products manufactured in ready-made garments department of the textile industry. This invention also relates to the operating methods of this machine.

This invention emphasizes particularly on the ability of the machine to eliminate technical, quality and inefficiency problems by making it possible to feed the panels always from the belt to leg sections for both serging and side seam operations. This is achieved by means of 2 separates, right and left-side overlook machines, and an automatic fabric concealer unit built on the same machine chassis.

State of the Art

Frays occur at the edges of the fabric of the cut piece due to the disintegration of the warp and weft threads. Serging stich is made so as to prevent this fraying. The fabric and model feature of the cloth shall be considered while the edge cleaning technique is selected. The loose and inclined manual pick stitch of the seam edges is called serging. In the manufacture of the trousers, serging stitch is performed so as to prevent formation of mohair of the fabric edges consisting of 4 panel pieces consisting of 2- front panels and 2-back panels. Moreover, the sewing operation called side seam used to join these panels is realized by an overlook machine which can perform sewing process from the right side section. The overlook machine is used for edge cleaning in woven fabrics and for main sewing process in tricot and circular knitting. It is preferred due to the fineness and flexibility of the seam.

Today, in the serging and side seam processes performed in sewing trousers, in order to prevent reverse stitches, 2 panels are sewn from the belt section to the leg section, the other 2 panels are made from the leg section to the belt section. There are additions and curves and thickness differences such as back yoke, pocket, pocket sack etc. in the belt section of the panels. Although the sewing step is performed with the machines, each step is controlled by the operator. The operator is responsible from receiving the panel, delivering the same to the machine, retaining the same during sewing and stacking processes in the serging and side seam processes. The operator takes the panel and delivers the same to the machine, 2 panels are sewn from the belt section to the leg, and the other 2 panels are sewn from the leg section to the belt section. The operator continues to hold the excessive sections based on the curves, additions on the panel until the end of the sewing process by means of regulating the same with the cutting blade to the extend specified. When the process is finished, it is stacked, and a new panel is taken for the next process. The present method discovers the technical and quality problems on the panel and inefficiency results on the operator and machine. Since the operator performs the sewing and regulating process manually, technical errors such as blank stitch etc. may occur on the panel. Since the operator performs the serging and side seam sewing process with the overlock machine than can sew from the right section, by starting 2 panels from the belt section and 2 panels from the leg section, stitch tensions and twists occur after sewing based on performing sewing process from different directions that degrades the quality. After the operator delivers the panel to the machine, he/she has to hold and wait until the end of the sewing process, in a similar way, the machine also waits for the operator after the sewing process during performing stacking, receiving new panel, delivering the same to the machine. As a result, the operator waits the machine and the machine waits the operator and a bi-directional inefficiency happens.

As a result, the requirement for an automatic serging machine which eliminates the abovementioned problems and the insufficiency of the current solutions makes it necessary to make a development in the relevant technical field.

Brief Description of the Invention

The present invention relates to an automatic serging machine which fulfills the above mentioned requirements, eliminates all disadvantages and brings some additional advantages, performs sewing operations defined as serging and side seam in denim, chino, fabric trousers and similar products manufactured in ready-made garments department in the textile sector and the operating method of this machine.

The aim of the invention, based on the state of the art is to make it possible to deliver the panels from the belt section in both serging and side seam sewing processes by means of 2 separate overlook machines which can perform sewing process from the right and left regions mutually located on the table on the same chassis in the automatic serging machine and the automatic fabric concealer located on the table.

The aim of the invention is to prevent the contact of the fabric flowing to the right and flowing to the left delivered to the left and right handed overlook machine by means of the fabric concealer that moves to the right and left automatically in the automatic serging machine.

Another aim of the invention is to provide automatic start of the sewing and regulating processes after the operator delivers the first panel to the right handed overlook machine by means of the automatic mechanisms attached to the machine and thus to eliminate the requirement of the machine’s waiting for the operator and the operator’s waiting for the machine by allowing the operator to continue his/her process without holding the panel until the end of the sewing process.

Another aim of the invention is to provide the closure of the leg section without getting in contact with the other panel by means of automatic arrival of the fabric concealer to the right region from the left region.

Another aim of the invention is to provide the operator’s placing the second panel to the left handed overlook machine after placing the first panel to the right handed overlook machine by the operator by means of continuing the processes without holding the fabric manually after the panel is placed by the operator to the developed automatic serging machine and thus to increase the efficiency by preventing the loss of productivity.

Another aim of the invention is to prevent excessive regulation and skip stitch formation by realizing the holding and control processes in the automatic serging machine by means of the edge control sensors and automatic mechanisms, to eliminate the technical fault and quality problems, to enable the operator to deliver the panel always from the belt section to the overlook machine and thus to enable the machine and the operator to continue their work without waiting for each other and to increase the efficiency.

Another aim of the invention is to provide sewing each of the fabrics consisting of 2 pieces from the belt to the leg that will form the right and left sections of the panel consisting of 4 pieces due to the fact that there are two overlook machines on the right and left sides of the automatic serging machine and thus to save time and to eliminate stitch quality problems occurred when sewing from leg section to belt section methodology.

The structural and characteristic features of the present invention will be understood clearly by the following drawings and the detailed description made with reference to these drawings and therefore the evaluation shall be made by taking these figures and the detailed description into consideration.

Brief Description of Drawings

In order to understand the advantages of the present invention with its structure and additional elements, it shall be evaluated with the following defined figures.

Figure-1 is a schematic general view of the automatic serging machine.

Reference Numbers

100. Automatic serging machine

101 . Chassis

102. Table

103. Right handed overlock machine

104. Left handed overlock machine

105. Magazine

106. Fabric concealer unit

107. Product collector unit

108. Stacking section

109. Control sensor

110. Automatic mechanism

Detailed Description of the Invention

In this detailed description, the inventive automatic serging machine (100) which performs sewing operations defined as serging and side seam in denim, chino, fabric trousers and similar products manufactured in ready-made garments department in the textile sector and the operating method of this machine are described only for clarifying the subject matter in a manner such that no limiting effect is created.

The automatic serging machine (100) shown in Figure 1 , is developed for eliminating the problems such as technical, quality, inefficiency etc. Said automatic serging machine (100) mainly comprises right handed overlook machine (103) and left handed overlook machine (104) which are located on the table (102) on the same chassis (101) mutually, can perform sewing process from its right and left regions and an automatic fabric concealer (106) located on the table (102). Said automatic serging machine (100) makes it possible to deliver the panels from the belt section in both serging and side seam sewing by means of this structure thereof. Said fabric concealer (106) prevents the panels delivered to the right handed overlook machine (103) and the left handed overlook machine (104) from contacting each other. The fabric flowing to the right and the fabric flowing to the left proceed without contact to each other by means of the fabric concealer (106). Said chassis (101) enables the transportation of all elements assembled on the table (101) of the automatic serging machine (100). When said right handed overlock machine (103) and the left handed overlock machine (104) operates simultaneously, it is provided to sew the panel pairs that will constitute the trousers simultaneously and to start from the belt section. The panels which consist of 4 parts as right front, right back, left front and left back and which are subjected to serging and side seam processes are kept in the magazine (105) section. The product collector (107) positioned on both right and left section of said automatic serging machine (100) provides the sewn panel to be taken to the stacking section (108) automatically without the intervention of the operator. Before the panels whose serging and side seam processes are completed are combined, they are collected in the stacking section (108) located on both right and left sections. After the panel is delivered to the right handed overlook machine (103) or left handed overlook machine (104), it is driven by means of the automatic mechanism (110) by holding the same and the sewing process is completed without the requirement of holding the panel by the operator and the piece is taken to the stacking section (108). During sewing process of the panel, control process is performed by the control sensor (109).

In said automatic serging machine (100), first of all the first panel retained in the magazine (105) is taken by the operator and is delivered to the right handed overlook machine (103) from the belt section. It is not required to hold the panel by the operator until the end of the sewing process by means of the automatic mechanisms (110) that provide edge control of said panel. After sewing and regulating processes by said right handed overlock machine (103) starts, the fabric concealer (106) comes from the left region to the right region automatically and thus the leg section of the panel is closed. While the right handed overlook machine (103) performs the processes of the first panel, the operator takes the second panel and delivers the same to the left handed overlook machine (104) from the belt section and the operator is not required to hold the panel until the end of the sewing process by means of the automatic mechanisms (110) that provide edge control of said panel. After sewing and regulating processes by said left handed overlook machine (104) starts, the fabric concealer (106) comes from the right region to the left region automatically and thus the leg section of the panel is closed. As a result, holding and controlling processes are carried out by the control sensors (109) and automatic mechanisms (110) instead of the operator. Thus, excessive regulation, blank stitch, technical fault and quality problems are not seen, the machine operator does not wait for the machine since the operator can always deliver the panel from the belt section and thus inefficiency is eliminated. The quality problem based on the difference of the fabric tensions caused by operator’s sewing from two different directions (starting from the belt and starting from the leg) by starting from the belt section each time by means of the right handed overlook machine (103) and the left handed overlook machine (104) independent from the form difference based on the curviness of the belt section while the leg portion is flat with the fabric thickness difference that is between the belt section and leg section of the trousers and forms due to the pocket section, lining and similar reasons, is eliminated by means of said automatic serging machine (100). Moreover, the sewing process is accelerated by means of the right handed overlook machine (103) and the left handed overlook machine (104), the operator only focuses on the belt area and is not required to be careful in terms of the leg section. When the sewing process on the right passes the belt section, loss of time is prevented by starting the sewing process by orienting to the left.

Since the panel continuously operates with the principle of starting from the belt section in said automatic serging machine (100), the operator can deliver a panel to a left handed overlook machine (104) and a right handed overlook machine (103) each time. After the detailed upper portion with additions required to be performed under the control of the operator is completed, then based on the progress feature of the panel with the automatic mechanism (110), the operator becomes idle and at this time, he/she delivers the second panel to the automatic serging machine (100) by feeding the other panel to the other head before the automatic process of the other panel is not completed. Therefore, the production capacity is significantly increased with the feeding advantage of both the right handed overlook machine (103) and the left handed overlook machine (104) by a single operator. The operator can give work to the right handed overlook machine (103) or the left handed overlook machine (104) without waiting for the work to be completed by means of the fabric concealer (106) system. Since the panels will continuously progress from the upper section to the leg section, the sewing quality will be better, and it will lead to different tensions and rotations after combining process of each piece that constitutes the trousers.